A classic and classy view from the top

Per Thomas, the cosmopolitan is the reigning Art Deco Society beverage of choice. Those who are flush can order up bartender Frank Rodarate's ultimate margarita for $60 -- AsomBroso tequila with a floater of Grand Marnier Cent Cinquantenaire -- a blend of 50-year-old cognacs and bitter orange essence. The bar's signature drink is the Raspberry Rosenson Lemon Drop, a citrus-y vodka cocktail named for the building's owner, Bernard Rosenson, who in late 2006 transformed the unused tower into the most elevated of lounges.

"Sharing is big at La Cantina," explains Rodarate. A tapas menu is available: charcuterie, olive plate or oversized tiger shrimp are among the choices, as well as the Sky Room's full menu. The vibe is friendly, due in part to the shared adventure of climbing those dizzying stairs and also thanks to Rodarate, who welcomes visitors by explaining the former resort's rich heritage, including onetime owner Conrad Hilton and the WWII gun turret just above.

Summertime, when the weather is fine and the day lingers, the bar welcomes crowds of wedding guests, celebrating friends and vacationing Midwesterners; however, on a cool, midwinter's night, you might have the view and the serene, one-of-a kind aerie all to yourself.

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theguide@latimes.com

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LA CANTINA DEL CIELO

WHERE: Above the Sky Room atop the Breakers, 40 S. Locust Ave., Long Beach

WHEN: 5:30 p.m.-close, Thursday-Saturday

PRICE: No cover except major holidays that involve fireworks

INFO: (562) 983-2703