Beso

Location: 6350 Hollywood Blvd. (at Ivar Avenue), Hollywood; (323) 467-7991.

Ambience: Glamorous supper club from "Desperate Housewives' " Eva Longoria Parker and Boston chef Todd English. The menu is a mix of Latin and Mediterranean, sometimes both in the same dish, with a bar menu that includes guacamole, dressed-up tacos and crudo (raw seafood).

Service: Varies from professional to overbearing.

Price: Guacamole, $14; shellfish and crudo dishes, $14 to $16; tacos, $13 to $18; starters, $10 to $14; steakhouse cuts, $32 to $60; seafood and other entrees, $26 to $36; sides, $8; desserts, $8 to $14.

Best dishes: Artichoke guacamole, serrano and pineapple flatbread, CraBLTA taco, butter lettuce wedge salad, Beso chopped salad, flat-iron steak, paella, creamy feta spinach, churros with spicy chocolate sauce.

Wine list: High markups with few bottles less than $50. Corkage fee, $25.

Best table: One of the swell booths, or a table on the mezzanine overlooking the action.

Details: Dinner Monday through Saturday, 6 to 11 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking, $10 upfront.

To see a photo gallery, go to latimes.com/food.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.