If you're heading for SeaWorld and miss the offramp, there's no need to be bummed out. Just southwest of the attraction is Ocean Beach, with stretches of sand, a retro downtown and a laid-back attitude. This groovy spot, fondly known as the People's Republic of Ocean Beach, retains its '60s vibe and that era's strong emphasis on community.
Beginnings
Shellfish is not your typical real estate sales lure, but it was used in lieu of searchlights in 1887, when Billy Carlson and Frank Higgins tried to sell lots in Ocean Beach. The promos included concerts and mussel roasts, spawning the name "Mussel Beach" -- but lot sales moved at a crustacean's pace.
Years later, Ocean Beach's resort-town potential was realized. Wonderland Amusement Park opened in 1913 with a roller coaster and merry-go-round; it was built on the sand and, much like a sand castle, eventually destroyed by storms and high ocean tides. Activity shifted to Newport Avenue with dance halls and a skating rink. Home construction took off in the 1920s and then slowed during the Depression.
The 1950s population boom brought new housing, but the redevelopment of the Mission Bay area and the construction of the 5 Freeway isolated Ocean Beach. The area became a hippie mecca in the '60s and was considered the Haight-Ashbury of San Diego. The newcomers' lifestyle put them at odds with some old-timers.
The New Age vibes of the 1970s fostered a mellow, more tolerant attitude among residents. The hippies of the '60s became the entrepreneurs of the '70s, bringing food co-ops and homegrown businesses that remain to this day.
What it's about
With its prime location, Ocean Beach could have become an upscale, snooty beach town. The first hint that something else is afoot is at Dog Beach. Here, pooches run free and romp in the ocean. There's even a self-service dog wash to use afterward.
Downtown is adjacent to the beach. The vibe is '60s funk on and around Newport Avenue. There are head shops, surf shops and hippie-style clothing stores, as well as antiques stores, cafes and bars. One revered eatery, Hodad's, is packed with surfboards, memorabilia and, much of the time, people chowing down on its huge burgers.
Ocean Beach has fought hard to retain its bohemian ways. Oceanfront overdevelopment was nipped in the bud by community groups. Most businesses are independently owned. There are few chains; the opening of Starbucks created quite a stir.
