Tasarpalas vents every firkin he sells in the L.A. area the day the beer will be served (once the cask is vented, the beer should be served within 48 hours to prevent spoilage). Improper venting can cause the beer to spew out the bunghole, creating a mess but also disrupting the yeast, which causes the beer to be cloudy if not allowed to fully settle.
Beer engines can cause their own problems. At Naja's Place in Redondo Beach, where cask-conditioned beers are usually available daily, as well as at the recently opened Verdugo Bar in Glassell Park, where cask beers are normally offered every other week, firkin orders were on hold when this story went to press, pending repairs of each pub's beer engine.
"It's a pretty basic pump machine with moving parts, so pull on it too much or quickly and it has a tendency to break," explains Verdugo co-owner Ryan Sweeney. Beer engines also take up a lot of space. McGovern bought several on a recent trip to England but has installed just one.
Still, when all goes well, the result is a beer lover's grand cru.
Among the best places to find cask-conditioned ales are brewery tasting rooms, British pubs, and bars with comprehensive beer selections. It's also worth seeking out restaurant-breweries where casks are frequently on offer and bartenders are well trained. Some, such as Rock Bottom in Long Beach, offer a rotating selection of two casks daily; others, including selected BJ's Brewery and Karl Strauss locations, offer rotating weekly versions.
The Blue Palms Brew House, a Hollywood craft beer hall opening later this summer, plans to always have a firkin on tap. And McGovern says he'll be adding a few beer engines at McG's, his pub in Chatsworth, in the coming weeks. But it's always a good idea to call ahead to confirm selection and availability. Although cask-conditioned beers are gaining popularity, thanks to committed brewers and retailers, they're still crazily high maintenance.
To be sure beer lovers get the unique experience they're looking for, brewers have to keep a tight rein on treatment of their delicate cask-conditioned ales by even their most trusted customers.
"It's like passing off your baby to the bartender," says Brynildson. "You've got to keep an eye on them."
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food@latimes.com
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Where the cask ales flow
CASK-CONDITIONED ales, -- unpasteurized, naturally carbonated beers served directly from their firkins (fermenting containers) -- can be difficult to find because of their short shelf life and special handling requirements, including a special hand pump called a beer engine.
The pubs and restaurants below serve local brews tapped from a cask (note special times); expect thick heads of foam, delicate fizz and fresh, yeasty flavor.
Upcoming: Blue Palms Brew House, opening in Hollywood in August, plans to offer daily casks.
Beachwood BBQ, 131 1/2 Main St., Seal Beach, (562) 493-4500, www.beachwoodbbq.com. Rotating selection of a Deans Brothers, Stone Brewing or other cask ale from a Southern California brewery offered daily.
BJ's Brewery and Restaurants, Oxnard and West Covina locations only, 461 W. Esplanade Drive, Oxnard, (805) 485-1124; 2917 E. Eastland Center Drive, West Covina, (626) 858-0054; www.bjsbrewhouse.com. Weekly cask night Thursdays from 2 p.m. features rotating selection of a BJ's house or seasonal cask ale such as pumpkin or spicy jalapeno.
Daily Pint, 2310 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 450-7631. Weekly cask night Fridays from 3 p.m. features rotating selection of a Firestone Walker, Stone Brewing, Craftsman or other cask ale from a Southern California brewery. Beginning in August, cask beers will be offered daily.
McG's Irish Pub, 21356 Devonshire St., Chatsworth, (818) 734-7056, www.mcgspub.com. Weekly cask night Fridays from 3 p.m. features rotating selection of a Firestone Walker, Stone Brewing, Craftsman or other cask ale from a Southern California brewery. Beginning in August, several beers will be offered daily.
Karl Strauss, 901A South Coast Drive, Costa Mesa, (714) 546-2739; 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Suite M-41, Universal City, (818) 753-2739. Cask nights the first Thursday of each month, from 4 p.m. in Universal City and 5 p.m. in Costa Mesa, feature a selection of a Karl Strauss house or seasonal cask ale such as double IPA or dry-hopped brown ale.
Naja's Place, 154 International Boardwalk Place, Redondo Beach, (310) 376-9951, www.najasplace.com. Rotating selection of a Firestone Walker, Stone Brewing or other cask ale from a Southern California brewery offered daily (beer engine currently being repaired; call for availability).
Rock Bottom Restaurant and Brewery, 1 Pine Ave., Long Beach, (562) 308-2255, www.rockbottom.com. Rotating selection of two Rock Bottom house cask ales such as American-style brown or double IPA offered daily.
Verdugo Bar, 3408 Verdugo Road, Glassell Park, (323) 257-3408, verdugobar.com. Cask nights (days vary) twice a month from 8 p.m. feature rotating selection of a Deans Brothers, Green Flash or other cask ale from a Southern California brewery (beer engine currently being repaired; call for availability and schedule).
Ye Olde King's Head, 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 451-1402, www.yeoldekingshead.com. Monthly cask night the first Friday of the month from October through May features a rotating selection of a Firestone Walker or other cask ale from a Southern California brewery.
-- Jenn Garbee
