Wisconsin is the land of cheddar, and some of the best is from Hook's Cheese Co. in Mineral Point. The artisan cheese maker has some cheddars of monumental age -- 10 years and older. And the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills is carrying a 12-year-old Hook's cheddar. It's deep, rich cheddar with complex flavor and those wonderful crystalline granules that recall fine Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Hook's cheddar, $50 per pound, $25 per half-pound, the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, (310) 278-2855, www.cheesestorebh.com.
-- Charles Perry