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Earthy spring dance

When beans meet greens, it's an easy balancing act of flavors, textures, colors.

March 26, 2008|Amy Scattergood, Times Staff Writer

Then in a large bowl, simply combine the black-eyed peas, wilted greens, bacon and a few handfuls of fresh mache with a quick vinaigrette. The soulful heartiness of the black-eyed peas and the bacon-laced greens play off the freshness of the mache, and the sweet acidity of the vinaigrette brings it all together.

Despite what many people (and many packaging instructions) might tell you, you do not need to soak dried beans overnight -- or even for a few hours.


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Savory bean soup

Instead, cook a little mirepoix (chopped onions, carrots and celery) in olive oil, then add a cup or more of dried beans and water to cover. Bring the contents to a boil, then cover; turn the heat to very low, and let the beans cook for about an hour and a half. Throw in some salt about halfway through the cooking process and check to see that there's still enough liquid; if not, add more. When the beans are tender, they're done.

The savory liquid that the beans generate when they cook, called pot liquor, carries different flavors depending on the beans -- marrow beans are almost buttery; Christmas limas taste faintly of chestnuts -- and these notes can get overwhelmed by the salty intensity of a ham hock or a rich meat or chicken stock. One of the subtle joys of making bean soup is that it's a brilliant way of showcasing this pot liquor, which forms much of the soup's base.

For soup, try cranberry beans (also called borlotti beans), which retain their shape and have a velvety texture. And for a classic beans and greens matchup, add not only lacinato (curly) kale to the pot but also a handful of pretty orecchiette pasta.

Reserve some cooked beans before you add the kale and puree them with a serious dose of smoked Spanish paprika. Spooned over the finished soup, the spicy puree adds a lovely smoky finish.

Any greens and beans combination needs a touch of acidity to bring it to true balance. The vinaigrette accentuates the contrasting elements of the salad, and a few squeezes of lime add a terrific dimension to the dandelion greens-lima taco, heightening the flavors more than a simple dose of citrus would seem capable of doing. A squeeze of lemon in the soup adds a final bright note that highlights the rich smokiness and the subtler nuances of flavor.

A basket of greens, a hill of beans: With two humble components, you can triangulate a meal of dreams.

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amy.scattergood@latimes .com

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