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The Glutton

March 27, 2008

From the caveman gnawing meat off the bone to the child chomping on a frozen chocolate banana, human beings have always relished food on a stick and on Friday, we celebrate our heritage with Something On A Stick Day. Shish kebabs, lollipops, corn from street vendors, cheese cubes at Whole Foods; all worthy examples. But this year the Glutton honors the humble corn dog -- which apparently isn't so humble anymore.

Following the gentrification of cupcakes, hamburgers and mac 'n' cheese, the corn dog now appears at trendy steakhouse Boa (West Hollywood) in Kobe beef form. Eating this $12 boondoggle was like colliding head-on into a brick wall of culinary futility. It had nice snap, good texture and good flavor -- exactly like one would find in a good supermarket hot dog.

Not to be outdone in the futility department, nearby Ketchup serves "barking dogs" -- two mini Kobe beef hot dogs doused in chili and cheese and served with a side of fries that taste like they came from McDonald's day-old vat.

The Glutton loves cured, smoked, ground, pressed meat as much as (OK, more than) the next person, but it rapidly reaches a point of diminishing returns. Avoid the high prices of the gourmet set and stick to the corn dogs at Hot Dog on a Stick or Wienerschnitzel. The Glutton challenges anyone to tell the difference.

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-- theguide@latimes.com

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