"This is where it all started," Waldhauser told the troops at Delaram. "We're just starting over again. We're going to be at this a long time."
After routing the Taliban, the Marines were largely redeployed to Iraq. A special operations unit arrived in early 2007 but was sent home amid controversy over civilian deaths.
Although commander Hall is proud of his battalion's accomplishments, he says the victories have been incremental. "We haven't won anything yet. We've got a long way to go," he said.
The deaths of 17 Marines, a soldier, a Navy corpsman and an interpreter continue to wear on Hall.
The 49-year-old father of 10 is in e-mail contact with many of the families of the fallen, and his eyes take on a faraway look when he mentions them.
"The character of these families is incredible," he said.
Some families of the slain Marines will be waiting in Twentynine Palms when the bulk of the battalion returns. A memorial service is planned for before Christmas.
"They talk about Afghanistan being the forgotten war," Hall said at his office at the large Bastion base, which the U.S. shares with Britain. "It certainly was on our watch."
At Delaram and seven other forward bases, life is austere, without the comforts common at major bases in Afghanistan and Iraq. In summer, temperatures soar to 120; in fall and winter, the nights are icy.
Among the enlisted, it became a point of pride that the Two-Seven had done more with less. The Marines mockingly refer to the base as the Hotel Del, a reference to a swank beachfront resort near San Diego.
"We had to adapt and overcome, like Marines have been doing since 1775," said Lance Cpl. Nathan Smith, 20, of Wisconsin Rapids, Wis.
At the same time, Marines said their comrades' deaths weighed heavy on their minds.
"Everyone here has felt it; it's not an isolated thing," said Lance Cpl. Colton Cooper, 21, of Dallas. "You have no choice but to keep pushing. It's just part of the job."
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tony.perry@latimes.com
