LOOKING seaward from Pacific Coast Highway in Malibu, there's almost no sign of the Beachcomber Cafe, but if you're astraddle a surfboard in the ocean off Surfrider Beach, you probably have a pelican's-eye view of what's so special about the place -- its million-dollar location.
The Malibu Pier, part of a state beach and well on its way along a revitalization path, has a deceptive kind of curb appeal. The '30s-era tile-topped entrance tower always catches motorists' attention, but unless you park and walk past the midcentury Sport Fishing Pier sign, you won't know that it's now an appealing spot for strolling, fishing, cocktailing, sunset-watching -- and dining.
But locals, including weeknight-appearing actor-celebs, have discovered the Beachcomber, a casual but pricey eatery that opened in July in the space once occupied by Alice's Restaurant. It's that rarest of waterfront restaurants, one that's as cozy (indoors) when the fog rolls in as it is breezy and bright (indoors and out) on sunny afternoons. It's small, full of booths and windows, and boasts remarkable views of waves, surfers and sky.
It's a neighborhood spot, but it's convenient to some pretty affluent neighborhoods, so it's not, for all its cannily nostalgic ambience (vintage photos, green vinyl booths, copper-faced kitchen wall), a snack shack. That's still to come, from the same restaurateurs, Doug Cavanaugh and Ralph Kosmides, to a space at the ocean end of the pier.
It's where you want to take your dad-in-law for his birthday after a drive up the coast or through the canyon pass. He'll get good service, a fine meal and a terrific martini, and he won't have to mess with a cadre of dark-suited managers or the din of a crowd stuffed shoulder-to-shoulder into banquettes.
Instead, he'll be warmly greeted by hosts who'll explain the setup. Lunch and dinner menus are served inside and out; for breakfast and bar menu items, seating is outside under umbrellas on a wind-sheltered, glass-walled terrace (dad-in-law can, of course, show up in his Tommy Bahamas). There are vegetarian options as well as a menu statement that ingredients are local and organic whenever possible.
The restaurant's bar, called the Malibu Pier Club, has outdoor seating as well as a small indoor bar with a wonderful tiki-infested party alcove (the Tonga Lei Room -- actually a single booth; reserve for parties of up to 10 to 12).
