Rendezvous season

YOUR favorite bar got you down lately? The miasma of dismal parking opportunities along the Canter's-dominated stretch of Fairfax Avenue has had you circling the Dime more times than you'd care to count. The last time you cozied up to the bartender at Frank 'n Hank's in Koreatown, a dart whizzed by so close to your ear that you could have come away with an unintended piercing.

You've endured achingly hip crowds, doorman turndowns, $12 valet parking -- and, that can't-a-gal-just-enjoy-her-beer indignity -- being forced to covetously hover over occupied tables with full glasses in hand while hoping for a few seats for you and your pals. It's enough to drive you to drink -- if you could find a spot to have one.

And as cooler weather approaches (finally), all you want is an easy place to meet a few good friends who've pulled on chummy sweaters and are willing to drive halfway across town (maybe with a date or an out-of-town visitor in tow) to convene for some lively conversation and a glass of Pinot, a draft Belgian ale or a decent sidecar, plus a few well-turned-out appetizers. No Leonardo DiCaprio sightings necessary.

Well, there's great news. A handful of bars and wine bars have popped up in some geographically convenient "meet-me-in-the-middle" locations, where rendezvousing with friends and lovers is exactly the point.

And once you're there, it just gets better, thanks to happy-making amenities like glorious retro-SoCal parking (in lots!!), comfy seating, not-too-loud music, no big-screen TVs, no bad attitudes from behind the bar, ambience that manages to have an alluring patina or some chic design without crossing the border to divey or to too-much-Ultrasuede sleek -- plus good food and drink.

Filling a gap

"Something was missing here in L.A." in terms of bars, says George Abou-Daoud, who opened the Bowery on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood three years ago, followed by the Delancey down the street in April and most recently Mission Cantina (next door to Delancey) in August.

"There were sports bars, there were clubs, there were restaurants, there were fast food places," Abou-Daoud says. "There wasn't a place that was a bar where people can just hang out and socialize and the food is consistently good and it wasn't a restaurant -- the bar has to be an integral part of it. I don't mean you come to the restaurant and wait at the bar."