SOMETIMES what happens is that the food at a neighborhood restaurant is so good (even if it's not fancy) that the get-together takes on a special glow.
At Nakkara on Beverly Boulevard in Los Angeles, witty remarks seem wittier because the tofu tower appetizer -- crisp fried tofu sandwiched between slices of cucumber -- is bright and surprising, with a sweet-sour tamarind sauce, hot slivers of onion and toasty bits of peanut to keep your attention focused on the changing flavors. Or maybe a sharp-tongued comment is inspired by the nuanced tart-fiery green papaya salad, so perfectly spiced with chiles and lime that you can hold the hot happiness in your mouth through a long, lovely finish.
It might seem when you eat here that your thought-provoking discussion doesn't meander but instead unwinds purposefully as speakers layer thoughts in logical harmony, like that found in Nakkara's simple, subtle fried rice, every grain articulated, infused with broth and stirred together with delicately braised vegetables.
Fantasy? Perhaps, but this place inspires a meet-me-there loyalty that's seemingly out of proportion to its storefront urban-central facade.
The room is spare and comfortable, but the most remarkable points of decor (a grand floral arrangement, a futuristic industrial wall sculpture) are questionably exuberant. The menu's message is moderately ambitious -- you're eating "Thai-inspired cuisine" -- but it's just a bit kitschy, listing dishes as "Delicious Works of Art" with subheadings such as "From Our Blue Canvas" (seafood).
The loyalty comes from that obvious but elusive accomplishment: It's where you want to be to connect with friends or a lover over a meal. Nakkara makes it easy.
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Neighborly vibe
Located IN a neighborhood that's not under-served when it comes to restaurants, Nakkara's just down the street from Cobras & Matadors. It knows its locals eat out often and, without being "high-end," offers the niceties that make an evening work: a valet parking stand ($5), handsome plates and artful presentation, no corkage fee although nice glassware is on hand.
And there's dim sum on Sundays and free delivery ($15 minimum) within a three-mile radius.
Dishes are mostly twists on Thai and Chinese favorites, with a sprinkling of Cal-cuisine variations. They're executed with a smart personal aesthetic.
