"The wines were too various" says a minor character in Evelyn Waugh's "Brideshead Revisited," attempting to excuse Sebastian Flyte's behavior after a party, "It was neither the quality nor the quantity that was at fault; it was the mixture. Grasp that and you have the root of the matter."
"The wines were too various" has become an epigram in my household, usually uttered, deadpan, when someone confesses to the possibility of having overindulged. But it's strictly a witticism, because for wine lovers, the wines can never be too various. If there's something interesting being opened, it doesn't matter how many wines have preceded it; most wine lovers won't hesitate to hold out their glass for a taste.
When an array of antipasto dishes is on the menu, I like to multiply the taste combinations exponentially by serving wines that are too various. It's fun to offer half a dozen or so bottles that have intriguing, distinctive flavors, allowing guests to gauge the compatibility of different wines with different dishes and to debate the best and worst pairings.
As host, you can either procure the wines yourself or suggest that guests each bring a bottle, but for an evening of small plates, let's agree on a few parameters to narrow the field. We'll stick to Italy; after all, who knows better than the Italians which wines pair well with antipasti?
And let's make it a no-Pinot-Grigio night. Nothing against that grape, which can yield terrific wines, but too often the selection of Italian whites begins with Pinot and ends with Grigio, when in fact the taste possibilities in other types of Italian whites vary tremendously. Finally, because the weather is warm, let's keep the wines, including the reds, refreshing and cool.
To avoid the formality and complications of serving wines one by one, open the bottles all at once. One of those acrylic wine party tubs will hold about half a dozen bottles along with ice to keep them chilled. (In a pinch, a canning kettle, stockpot or a spare kitchen sink will do nicely.) It's easier to stand the opened, re-corked bottles in the receptacle first, then pour in a couple bags of ice and let guests help themselves over the course of the evening.
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Food challenges
Entertaining with antipasto dishes, tapas or small-plates appetizers can present some wine-pairing challenges. Salads and condiments strongly flavored with vinegar or lemon juice, as well as wine-unfriendly foods such as artichokes, can be hard to match. These dishes are often best with white wines that have the body, acid structure and heft to stand up to assertive flavors.
