Shin's recipe: friends and food

The brisket is sliced razor-thin and comes on a plate with each bright-red slice folded just so and arranged in a flower-like pattern. Since the restaurant itself is so frill-free -- black banquettes, rows of varnished dark-wood tables, a large gong and an eerie moonscape of an aquarium behind the bar, where a lone white jellyfish floats -- this thoughtful presentation is a welcome touch.

The attention to detail is in line with the overall vibe of Shin, which is laid-back but focused on serving simple, fresh Korean food -- albeit geared toward the slightly frightened American palate. Note the lack of anything too foreign, tongue or tripe for instance, which are crowd-pleasers in Koreatown.

"The recipes are basically authentic Korean recipes," says Shin. "But I've tweaked it . . . taken out some of the fishier elements and hot spice. I know what my friends would eat."

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jessica.gelt@latimes.com

Shin, 1600 N. Wilcox Ave., Hollywood. 7 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesdays through Sundays. Meat, $15-$35; soups, $12-$25; rice, noodles, $15. Full bar. (323) 464-4100, www.shinbbq.com.

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