Reality stars

But what is relevant now? Relevant is a supremely elegant, go-to jacket from Raf Simons at Jil Sander, with the back draped into a cowl or replaced with a curtain of fringe. It is a timeless black dress, such as Simons' cocktail sheath encased in quivering black fringe, or his twisting bias-cut gown with subtle cutouts highlighting the curves of the body, and playing on light and dark like an Abstract Expressionist painting.

Now those are worth collecting. Christopher Bailey's earthily romantic trench coats in floral laser-cut python (can you imagine?) are too -- couture outerwear. And then there's Tomas Maier's sculpted nappa leather dress in rich caramel, like a handbag for the body for those who don't have to worry about what's in their handbags.

What's more universally relevant is a piece that makes you so happy, you can't pass it up. And Marni's show was full of them, starting with the knitwear -- ruffled, zip-front color-blocked sweaters; colorful double-layer cardigans; and pullovers in '60s geometric designs. Multicolored bejeweled shoulder shrugs and interlocking macrame-dot pencil skirts were candy for the eyes. And plasticky flower bud necklaces brought back sweet childhood memories of Shrinky Dinks.

To the extreme

Miuccia Prada had fewer upbeat moments. To her, women are in a disheveled state, shedding their "skin" for summer, leaving the office and the city behind. They're clad in crinkly bra tops and pencil skirts with cropped jackets tied at the neck with ribbons, or sheath dresses spliced with off-kilter animal prints. No ironing required. More likely to make a splash were those peppy red-and-white fish print skirts. And forget about the shoes -- deadly snakeskin stilettos worn with bow-back Peds. Watching the models slip, slide and fall was agony. On that front, Prada certainly did not have her feet planted on the ground.

Neither did Roberto Cavalli, whose collection had a "Marie Antoinette parties down at Studio 54" feel, with Rococo-painted bustier minidresses interspersed with Halston-like jersey gowns. Maybe for a costume party.

Donatella Versace's collection was back to its old sexed-up self, which is to say, more thigh-high minidresses embellished with disco sparkles or decorative zippers shaped into cutesy hearts, and less of the grownup suits and day dresses that have distinguished the brand in the last couple of seasons.