Michelle Obama's inaugural dress may set tone for her White House style

Michelle Obama may be a trained lawyer with an Ivy League education, but on Tuesday night she will be America's Top Model. What she wears to the inaugural balls will set the style agenda for the administration and hold a mirror up to what it means to be a woman in America right now, which still includes being judged by your appearance.

In 1977, Rosalynn Carter recycled the blue gown she'd worn for her husband's gubernatorial inaugural, in keeping with the president's decision to host the People's Inaugural, complete with $25 ball tickets. Four years later, Nancy Reagan's $10,000 bugle-beaded James Galanos gown signaled a return to glamour in the White House that was curiously timed, considering the country was about to enter a recession.

If there's one thing that's almost certain, it's that Obama will wear American, because the inaugural gown is a sartorial flag waved around the world. Which explains why, even though the Hollywood red carpet season is running full tilt, designers are lining up to dress the future first lady.

Hillary Rodham Clinton and Laura Bush paid tribute to their hometowns, choosing to work with relatively unknown local designers on their inaugural evening ensembles. Clinton's violet rhinestone gown with a chiffon overskirt was by Sarah Phillips of Little Rock., Ark. And Bush turned to Dallas-based Michael Faircloth for her beaded red Chantilly lace confection. Has anybody heard of those two designers since?

For their husbands' second inaugurations, both women traded up to Oscar de la Renta, an institution among New York's high society whose brand of Old World elegance is above criticism.

Obama has worn several creations by Chicago-based designer Maria Pinto. Obama favors Pinto's solid-colored sheaths, which make for a nice photograph, especially when worn by someone who is fit, with a 5-foot-11-inch frame. At press time her choice was unknown, but she could continue the hometown inaugural gown tradition by going with the low-key Pinto. It would be the safest choice, considering the uproar created by her fussy black-and-red election night dress, which was straight from the runway. One of Pinto's modern designs would be refreshing after the bedazzled opulence of the Southern-tinged Clinton and Bush ball gowns.