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Pocket farm could end up dying on the vine

A Culver City restaurateur is growing produce on a pastoral slice next to his cafe on National Boulevard. But officials say zoning prohibits raising crops for sale within city limits.

July 31, 2009|Martha Groves

Any day now, Culver City restaurateur Vincent Trevino could find himself awash in a crimson tide of tomatoes.

In April, Trevino persuaded the owner of a long-derelict former railroad spur next to his Bluebird Cafe on National Boulevard to let him put in 535 tomato plants and 40 fruit trees. A proponent of urban gardens, Trevino envisioned harvesting produce for the cafe and charging patrons to pick their own Early Girls and beefsteaks.


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But even as the tomatoes begin to redden in earnest, Trevino's bucolic dream might be dying on the vine.

City officials have told Donald Barr, the developer who owns the strip of land, that zoning prohibits raising crops for sale within the city limits. Growing fruits and vegetables for personal use is fine, they say. Selling them is not.

Trevino, 45, and Barr, 76, thus have arrived at the uneasy junction of urban and rural. With edible gardens sprouting in yards and vacant lots in metropolitan areas throughout the country, Culver City officials are pondering the implications of a commercial pocket farm in the midst of factories and houses.

Even before First Lady Michelle Obama planted lettuce and snap peas on the White House lawn, the concepts of edible landscaping and the local sustainable foodshed movement were "really taking off in our state and in many places across the country," said California Agriculture Secretary A.G. Kawamura, an Orange County grower.

As a result, cities across the nation are having to grapple with the concept of urban farming, often with no municipal codes to guide them.

Trevino and his business partner, Chris Marble, opened their yellow-and-blue cafe four years ago on an eclectic stretch of National across from where the Expo Line light rail line will eventually pass. Their modestly priced paninis, salads, wraps and burgers -- not to mention delectable red velvet cupcakes -- became a hit with area residents and workers.

To help ensure a supply of fresh produce, Trevino and Marble have farmed several acres in Fallbrook in northern San Diego County. Last year, the land produced about 10,000 pounds of tomatoes, along with citrus, figs, avocados, agave and grapes, Trevino said. But commuting to that operation and transporting the produce has proved expensive and time-consuming. When Barr agreed to let them plant on about half an acre of his right-of-way, they seized the opportunity.

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