Westside Tavern at Westside Pavilion is an unexpected delight

I can tell you my friends weren't all that excited when I told them where we were headed for dinner: the Westside Pavilion. Granted, dining in a shopping mall doesn't quite have the allure of Providence or the Bazaar by Jose Andres. But then again, I told them, you never know where the next great restaurant will pop up in Southern California. It could be in the most banal of strip malls, tucked away in Glendale or hiding out in the O.C. That's one of the peculiarities -- and delights -- of this endlessly fascinating area.

What is this, a sports bar? I wonder, as we walk into the huge, darkish space at the foot of the escalators to the movie theaters. Behind the 50-foot walnut bar, a bartender mixes up a Cantaloupe Sour, then moves on to assemble a Sazerac embellished with lemon oil. Oh, the possibilities, I'm thinking, as in cocktails before a movie. How civilized. And they're just $9, as opposed to $15 elsewhere.

In answer to my question, one of my male friends volunteers that this is no sports bar. There aren't enough flat screens. In fact, there's just one mounted at the far left of the bar, which is a relief if you're more intent on dipping into the latest Michael Connelly thriller over your drink than keeping up with the Dodgers game.

But this tavern is much more than a bar. Warren Schwartz, former executive chef at Saddle Peak Lodge and Whist -- and a partner here -- has created an affordable and seasonal menu that he's dubbed California tavern fare. Nothing is startlingly original, but what is unusual is how well-conceived and well-executed each dish is. Being a good cook isn't enough in the executive chef position. You have to be able to lead and to teach. Obviously, Schwartz can't cook every dish himself, yet the food at Westside Tavern is consistently good.

The other night I took a bite of the spinach that came with my spit-roasted chicken and set down my fork I was so surprised. It was about as perfect as I've ever encountered, lightly sauteed, each emerald leaf slicked with butter and perfumed with garlic. The chicken itself was moist, the skin full of flavor, and it came with a punchy whole-grain mustard sauce on the side. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

--

More to share

First of all, know this: The portions are huge at Westside Tavern. Unless you're a real trencherman, count on sharing appetizers and even mains, all of which make this Westside restaurant even more affordable.