As for the method by which to cook it, Yagi uses her combination steam/convection oven.
But on a recent Saturday morning, she experimented with cooking it in a microwave and in a water bath, both on top of the stove and in the oven. It is, after all, a "matter of science," Yagi says. Hence, the six bowls of tofu.
The first three bowls of tofu were made in a 1,000-watt microwave for various cooking times (Kariya had recommended using a 700-watt microwave); they all look, to some degree, wrinkled or curdled as well as slightly discolored.
But the other three bowls of tofu, cooked in a water bath (two on the stove for different times and one in the oven), are smooth and white and slightly jiggly like creme brulee. Yagi suggests setting filled custard cups into a pan, pouring warm water about halfway up and then putting it in a 350-degree oven for about 15 minutes. A steamer works really well too, is easy to use and seems to cook the tofu more quickly.
Kariya's recipe definitely works best with his soy milk and nigari. But if you don't live within convenient driving distance of his Gardena shop, his method does work with other soy milk. It should be fresh soy milk made from just soybeans and water, the kind sold at Japanese and other Asian markets in half-gallon plastic jugs.
Japanese markets also carry liquid nigari, which has been riding a wave of popularity for its purported health benefits. "Japanese housewives put a drop or two in their tea," Yagi says. (Even Kariya suggests adding a little to soup.) The amount of nigari you use may need to be adjusted.
The better the soy milk, the better the tofu; the flavor of the soybeans really comes through, clean and slightly sweet.
Yagi tops chilled tofu with uni, diced big-eye tuna, hijiki seaweed, dashi, white soy sauce and yuzu. For vegetarians, she serves it warm with hon-shimeji mushrooms, grated ginger and garlic, white soy and finely cut nori.
It's also delicious topped simply, with a sprinkling of sea salt and finely sliced green onions, or with grated ginger and soy sauce. Or pour over a little ginger syrup, and it's almost like dessert.
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betty.hallock@latimes.com
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They put fresh tofu on the map
Where to find the best artisanal tofu in Southern California.
Vinh Loi Tofu
18625 Sherman Way No. 101, Reseda; (818) 996-9779, www. Regular tofu (block), $2.25; regular fried tofu (block), $3; seasoned tofu (block), $2.75; tofu pudding, $2, with pandan $2.50.
