Kansas City BBQ

Up till this trip, I'd eaten at the Stack's at 95th Street and Metcalf Avenue in Overland Park, Kan. (JoCo), and I loved the food. But this time, because I was staying near the Plaza and had business to conduct nearby, I chose the Country Club Plaza location in Kansas City, Mo., for a dinner with my cousins and my adopted aunt.

For every meal on this trip, I ordered burnt ends, which are a tribute to Arthur Bryant, who is credited with figuring out that chopping off and serving the crispy parts of the brisket could delight the masses.

Burnt ends aren't incinerated the way a burger gets when it's too close to the flame. The best ones are, at once, tender in the right spots and chewy-charred in spots. Jack Stack's were right on. (The Poor Russ sandwich is made of burnt ends and previous encounters with that gets my stamp of approval.) Stack's also has ribs: pork and beef, of course, and also crown prime rib and lamb, which I've not tried. The sides are stupendous: The beans have a wonderful smoky flavor, and the cheesy corn bake side dish is so good I'd go just for that.

Stack's Plaza location is the kind of place you'd take out-of-town guests if you were trying to show them everything that's right with Kansas City. The decor is rich and warm and unobtrusive.

The Plaza location will give you a chance to appreciate what's often called the oldest shopping district in the country, dating to the 1920s. Maybe it was preordained that Stack's would put a location here: The Plaza, legend has it, was once part of a pig farm. It has shed its porcine past, though, thanks to a fellow named J.C. Nichols, whose youthful European ramblings influenced his choice of architectural styles. Stucco, tiles, fountains and towers cement the Continental impression.

It's also close to my new favorite place to stay (next to Chez Cousin, of course). The Southmoreland Bed & Breakfast, 116 E. 46th St., (816) 531-7979, is a 12-room (plus Carriage House) beauty full of antiques.

I stayed in the Satchel Paige room. With a business rate of $109 and a breakfast worth getting out of bed for (great muffins, pastries and quiche), I found it more than satisfactory.

Danny Edwards

Yes, I'd had a full breakfast at the Southmoreland, which I would regret only slightly upon arriving at Danny Edwards a little after 11 a.m. Every one of the 70 or so seats was taken, and when a table opened, we grabbed it.