To find a fresh, crisp, minerally Gavi for less than $20 is something of a miracle, especially one as good as this one from Castellari Bergaglio. The Cortese di Gavi grape doesn't always produce such a beauty, but the Castellari family is picking its grapes from a vineyard that's more than 80 years old.
The "Rovereto" has definition and grace, and goes down easy with chilled shellfish or a seafood platter. Pour it for a seafood risotto or a plate of spaghetti with clams. It loves grilled fish. And it loves pasta with pesto or even a minestrone with a little pesto swirled in.