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THE REVIEW

At home in his own kitchen

Mark Gold's Sunday dinner is a great value at $35, but his love of cooking comes across all week long.

November 18, 2009|S. IRENE VIRBILA | RESTAURANT CRITIC

It's Sunday night and I've just come off an 11-hour flight rumpled and cross-eyed after reading the last installment of Steig Larsson's "Millennium" trilogy straight through. When my friend picks me up at the airport, she reminds me that I'd asked her to make a reservation at Eva for their prix fixe Sunday dinner.

What foresight! Because I happen to be hungrier than I can remember having been in a long time. There's just time for a bath and a much-needed change of clothes before we set off again for Eva, two doors down from BLD on Beverly Boulevard in the space that was once Hatfield's.

As we settle into one of the tables on the porch that wraps around the small bungalow, a waiter approaches, an apron around his waist and a bottle of wine in each hand. Albarino or a Meritage from Carneros? he asks. It turns out that wine is included with the $35 Sunday night supper, making it quite the bargain. And it's not just plonk either, but bottles that grab your interest.

Of course, Eva is not the first to have a Sunday night set-menu supper program. Suzanne Goin more or less started the idea at Lucques and got a highly successful cookbook out of it too. Palate does something similar, on Sunday afternoon and evening. And Eva's Sunday night menu exemplifies everything that is good about the new restaurant from chef-owner Mark Gold.

For The Record
Los Angeles Times Thursday, November 19, 2009 Home Edition Main News Part A Page 4 National Desk 1 inches; 23 words Type of Material: Correction
Restaurant review: A review of Eva restaurant in Wednesday's Food section identified the pastry chef as Tess Parker. Her name is Tess Panzer.
For The Record
Los Angeles Times Wednesday, November 25, 2009 Home Edition Food Part E Page 2 Features Desk 0 inches; 21 words Type of Material: Correction
Restaurant review: A Nov. 18 review of Eva restaurant identified the pastry chef as Tess Parker. Her name is Tess Panzer.

Any night of the week, the place is fun and relaxed. And, though Gold cooks exceedingly delicious food, he's not given to taking himself too seriously. He also has something very rare, a generosity of spirit that translates onto the plate.

Walk into Eva (which is named after Gold's grandmother) and you won't have to stand around waiting to be noticed. Someone welcomes you right away. If not Gold himself, then one of the members of his staff, dressed in white T-shirts with gray knit sweater vests from Suss Cousins of SussDesign, who has a shop up the street.

The night's menu begins with Little Gem lettuce, each dainty crinkly leaf separated and cloaked in a velvety green goddess dressing with a good splash of vinegar in it. It's utterly seductive and refreshing.

On Sundays everything is served family-style, which makes Eva's supper something of a cross between Lucques' long-running event and the nightly fare at Thomas Keller's casual Ad Hoc in Napa Valley. Before we'd even finished the Little Gem salad, a bowl of warm potato salad and a platter of juicy fried chicken straight from the fryer arrives. Piled high on a platter, there's a meaty thigh for each of us, just what the jet lag doctor ordered. Somebody mentions wings wistfully. And minutes later, the kitchen sends out fried wings, one to a person. A bite of chicken. A bite of potato salad. What more can you ask for on a Sunday night?

Dessert? Not quite yet. Gold is also serving brisket braised in red wine and cut in finger-thick slices to show off its texture. It comes with a thatch of green beans on top and a bowl of spinach in cream so thick it resembles a light custard. As I taste the beef, I'm wondering why more restaurants don't serve brisket. It's become a lost art.

Dessert, when it arrives, is a homey buttered bread pudding drizzled with a caramel sauce that tastes just the way it should -- of butter and caramel instead of something from a squeeze bottle. Pastry chef Tess Parker was a home baker until she walked in one day to ask for a job at the precise moment that Gold needed someone. This month's dessert menu includes a light-as-air lemon pudding cake crowned with meringue and sweetened with thyme honey. She's doing a 2-inch-high pain perdu (French toast) with barhi dates tucked inside, cloaked in a ginger custard.

Gold is used to cooking at much more high-volume, high-price-tag restaurants. He was last at Leatherby's Cafe Rouge at the Orange County Performing Arts Center, and previously executive chef at Cafe Patina downtown and executive sous chef at Water Grill under then-chef Michael Cimarusti. He's clearly a skilled executive chef. Whether or not he's at the stoves, dishes are executed with the skill of a first-class kitchen.

How can he turn out such polished cooking at such moderate prices for the quality? His normal menu, which changes frequently, is focused and small, with a handful of appetizers, the same number of mains. To start, you can get Bagaduce oysters on the half shell simply presented on a pillow of salt in all their briny glory. There's always a soup. It could be a slurried onion soup embellished with pickled baby chanterelles or a silky smooth potato puree enriched with a little Parmigiano-Reggiano and garnished with miniature croutons.

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