THE BEST WAY TO PALERMO From LAX, connecting service (change of planes) to Palermo, Italy, is available on Air France and Delta, connecting to Alitalia, Lufthansa and British. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $407.
TELEPHONESTo call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (country code for Italy) and the local number.
WHERE TO STAYHotel Villa Mokarta, 84A Via Macello, Salemi, 0924-98-33-15, www.mokarta.it. It's outside the historic center in a modern building without charm. The family that runs the hotel is very sweet, the rooms have modern comforts and the restaurant offers excellent daily specials; doubles cost about $151, including breakfast.
Hotel Giardino di Costanza, 0923-67-50-00, www.kempinski.com/sicily, a Kempinski hotel 30 minutes south of Salemi, has a beautiful pool and spa. Doubles begin at about $445.