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A high-speed zip across Europe by train

A father and son discover that getting around Europe is a breeze, thanks to the high-speed and regional train service. Good thing, since the stations are a bit on the brisk side.

June 20, 2010|By James McCommons | Special to The Times

We rested a day before boarding a Virgin train to London. The trip started off well enough. We had two first-class facing seats, a table with a reading lamp, and access to wireless Internet. We e-mailed pictures of the trip home; Kelly updated his Facebook page. The train purred along at 110 mph. By the Midlands, however, there were problems ahead with the electrical infrastructure. Trains were being canceled, and in Birmingham, stranded passengers crowded aboard our train until they stood in the aisles and sat on luggage between cars. Brits complain about their rail system when they compare it to the bullet trains racing across the Continent, but their intercity trains generally are reliable and frequent.

Back at Euston Station, we bought Cornish pasties for dinner and switched to a regional train to Portsmouth, where we boarded an overnight ferry to France. We arrived at 5 a.m. A bus waited outside the terminal to take us inland to the train station in Caen. On that deserted highway, a good student of D-Day (and I'm one) would recognize the landmarks and towns. I pointed out the turnoff for the Pegasus Bridge and began an explanation when I noticed Kelly was asleep. He woke long enough to stumble aboard a French Railways train that ran nonstop to Paris, 234 miles away.

The sun rose in a hazy mist. Normandy emerged in monochromatic hues — yellow-brown stucco homes with terracotta roofs, silhouetted church steeples and fields framed with hedgerows. By American standards, the train was fast — probably 110 mph plus — but it was no TGV. When I walked to the end of the coach to close the restroom door, I heard a roar of air and realized the toilet flushed onto the tracks. I haven't seen a "hole in the floor" since the 1970s, when Amtrak was still running cars built in the 1930s.

Two days later, we left Paris from the Gare du Nord on a TGV service to Stuttgart, Germany. I plugged ear buds into a radio receiver between the seats and found a station playing Mozart. The countryside flew by at a dizzying pace. Reaching speeds of 160 mph, the train covered 400 miles (with stops) in just 3.3 hours.

At Stuttgart, we switched to an Intercity Express ( ICE) built by Siemens and operated by Deutsche Bahn, the German national railway. I fell in love with these high-speed trains and their wide, bright coaches with separate family compartments. The dining cars served full meals of sauerkraut and sausages and other regional fare.

We stopped in Munich for a couple of days and walked the Marienplatz, the heart of the historic district. One morning we took the Third Reich Walking Tour and met the English-speaking guide beneath the Rathaus-Glockenspiel.

She took us to the Hofbräuhaus, where Hitler gave one of his first beer hall speeches. It was an odd tour. As we walked the streets, she would pull from her purse old photos of bombed-out buildings and copies of drawings by Adolf Hitler, the art student. Whenever elderly people passed by, she lowered her voice, "I don't want to upset them."

We had only a day in Berlin, but I wanted to see the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Gate, and I welcomed the six-hour ICE ride. Somewhere north of Nuremberg, the architecture and décor changed. Gutted factories, drab apartment buildings and graffiti-covered walls characterized some cityscapes along the tracks — clear signs we had entered the former East Germany.

Division is still evident too in Berlin. Despite all the construction since the Wall fell in 1989, there's still much vacant land around the city center. A symbol of the city's renaissance and reunification, however, is the Berlin Hauptbahnhof, the central train station completed in 2006. This soaring structure of glass and steel, with a 900-foot-long train shed and three levels of track, handles 1,100 trains a day.

We caught our final ICE train here, one of six nonstops that day to Amsterdam. Hours later, we were in the lounge chatting with a German college student and his Australian girlfriend when the train — just 40 miles outside Amsterdam — suddenly slowed and jerked into a station. An announcement was made in German.

The student interpreted, "They say something is wrong with this train. We have to get off." About 200 or 300 of us got off with our luggage onto a concrete platform. This wasn't unfamiliar. I'd been on Amtrak trains that had died in cornfields or been stuck on sidings for hours. Usually, Amtrak sends motor coaches to gather up passengers, because there's no redundancy in the system.

Not here. Ten minutes later, a Dutch Railways regional train pulled to the stop, threw open its doors and we all piled on. Now that's connectivity and frequency.

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