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Tradition of the Azores takes root in Central Valley bullrings

The men of the Amadores de Turlock preserve their cultural heritage with 'bloodless bullfighting.' For some, it's a way 'to remember and connect with your inner animal.'

August 25, 2011|By Diana Marcum, Los Angeles Times
  • Michael Lopes tackles a bull as the Amadores de Turlock move in. With this version of "bloodless bullfighting," the men jump on the bull's head, pull its tail and spin it into a dizzy stupor.
Michael Lopes tackles a bull as the Amadores de Turlock move in. With this… (Robert Gauthier/Los Angeles…)

Reporting from Stevinson, Calif. — Ask any forcado why he stands unarmed in front of a charging bull and he'll tell you he's crazy.

Anyone watching would have to agree.

The Portuguese-style bullfighters don't use spears or swords. They rely instead on brotherhood and synchronized steps. They don't try to kill the 1,100-pound animal. They jump on its head, pull its tail and spin it into a dizzy stupor.

The forcados make their stand in festa bravas (bullfights) in the dusty dairy towns of Central California, places like Stevinson, Gustine and Laton, where the Azores islanders live.

For decades, the main export of the Azores — nine volcano tips in the Atlantic Ocean, 900 miles off the coast of Portugal — was its people. From 1941 to 1981, nearly 40,000 people from the bullfight-loving island of Terceira migrated to the Central Valley. Today there are more people of Azorean descent in California than there are in the islands. About 95% of the state's 500,000 Portuguese are Azorean.

In summer, their communities come alive with the kind of festas that have been held in the Azores for centuries, with parades, a Catholic Mass and a bullfight.

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On a Monday night in Stevinson (population 200), there are 3,000 people in a bullfight arena across the street from the Pentecost Assn. hall, almost all of them Portuguese Americans. They are waiting for the trumpets to announce the entrance of the bull.

Below the stands, in a narrow, circular passageway separated from the bull ring by a 4-1/2 -foot barrier, the forcados pace nervously.

They wear a uniform of skintight breeches, lacy white knee socks, red cummerbund, cropped brocade jacket, white shirt and red tie. Topping it off is a long, woolen, red and green hat that is all Christmas elf.

Jason McDonald, a 30-year-old service manager for General Motors in Modesto, makes the sign of the cross and waves to his two young sons in the stands.

Howard Drew, 40, taps the top of his socks; his secret trick is to wrap electrical tape around them to hold them up.

Drew, a former Marine, is older than most forcados and his heritage is not Portuguese, but German, Swedish and Native American. He was in the last vehicle to leave Kuwait after Operation Desert Storm in 1991.

"Once you've had bullets flying all around you — I don't know if I was bored or what. I had a lot of friends who were Portuguese so I started bullfighting," he said. "I've considered stopping, but I'm afraid if I quit I'll get old."

A forcado knows he's been chosen to fight when he gets a tap on the shoulder from his coach.

The forcados work in teams of eight. In the ring, they line up single-file behind their frontman, called the caras. The caras walks ahead to "call" the bull, making eye contact, yelling "Touro! Touro!," stamping his foot if that's what it takes. When the bull charges, the caras backpedals. If all goes well, the bull, its horns wrapped in leather, will hit him smack in the gut, then plow through the rest of the line, piling up forcados like meringue ripples.

As the bull slows to a stop under a mound of bullfighters, one of them, the rabejador, grabs the tail, and the bull chases him in circles while the crowd roars.

In the Stevinson arena, the trumpets sound. The loud murmur of Portuguese falls silent. The bull enters the ring, dripping saliva. Several forcados, still behind their barrier, drop to their knees and pray.

Michael Lopes, 22, a rising forcado star who recently graduated from St. Mary's College near Oakland with a degree in accounting, stays upright and stares straight at the bull.

Then Paulo Ferreira rides into the ring. He is the cavaleiro, a bullfighter on horseback.

He plays "pin the dart on the bull." He and his horse spin away from the bull's horns with balletic grace as he lands his beribboned darts.

In Portugal, they would be javelins stabbed into the bull's neck. In the California version, called bloodless bullfighting, the darts are Velcro-tipped and are thrust into a pad glued to the bull's shoulders.

George Martins, 48, coach of the Amadores de Turlock team, studies the thick-necked bull. Which of his forcados could best face this particular animal?

Martins walks over to Lopes. Neither looks at the other. They both watch the bull.

"Michael, this is your bull," Martins says, touching Lopes' shoulder.

Until this moment, Lopes, an affable young man with auburn curls, had an easy grin.

Now his face flushes and sets hard. He begins jumping up and down, fueled by adrenaline. He pounds his chest and arms with his fists. He pounds the wall with his head. He snorts.

Ferreira leaves the ring to cheers and women blowing kisses.

The eight forcados who have been chosen to fight place their hands on the barrier separating them from the bull.

To a man, the forcados say the scariest moment is never in the ring, but this one, just before entering.

Lopes holds up one finger, then two. When he raises a third and shouts "Showtime baby!" they leap over the wall in unison.

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