The Davis, Calif., brewpub Sudwerk specializes in classic German beers. For its 20th anniversary, it's stepping out a little with this brew, which has nothing but a great big S for a label. It's an "imperialized" Pilsner — that is, amped up with more hops, more malt and more alcohol (7%, as against the typical 5% for this style).
It has a huge, dense head like a proper Pilsner, with a clean, floral nose. The malt makes it noticeably sweeter, though not as sweet as a bock. The main effect of the hops is not so much aroma or bitterness but a neat cleanup of the finish, which starts on the sweet side but dries up smoothly in a matter of seconds.
It would go well with many foods, particularly grilled sausages and chicken. The malt level makes it particularly suited to cheese nachos.