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Column One

End of the road for the shoe tree

On the 'Loneliest Road in America,' a stately cottonwood filled with the footwear of passersby was something in the middle of nothing. Now locals are mourning it like an old friend.

February 16, 2011|By Ashley Powers, Los Angeles Times
  • In this Aug. 27, 1998 file photo, shoes hang from the landmark "shoe tree" on U.S. 50 in Nevada.
In this Aug. 27, 1998 file photo, shoes hang from the landmark "shoe… (Marilyn Newton / Associated…)

Reporting from Middlegate, Nev. — Fredda Stevenson sized up the despondent young man who'd slunk into her remote watering hole on U.S. Highway 50. He was thirsting for beer and, as Stevenson learned, advice.

His new bride, he grumbled, had blown all their cash on slot machines in Reno. Then they'd sped east through 100 miles of sagebrush and hills as dark and lumpy as mud pies. They camped down the road from Stevenson's bar, near a large cottonwood tree that had inexplicably thrived in Nevada's badlands. The couple started quarreling.

She threatened to walk home. He snatched her shoes, hurled them into the cottonwood's branches and said: Go ahead. Try. He stormed off with the car and ended up two miles away, at Old Middlegate Station. He polished off two beers before listening to Stevenson's sage counsel:

"You want to be married for the rest of your life? You better learn to say 'I'm sorry' now."

As Stevenson told it, the groom shuffled back and apologized. Then, at his bride's insistence, he hurled his own shoes into the tree.

That was in the late 1980s. Ever since, other passersby have pulled over and added their footwear — worn-out sneakers and too-tight pumps, ballet slippers and snowshoes. Horseshoes knotted with baling twine. Plastic stilettos from brothel courtesans (or so locals claim).

The roadside spectacle provided Middlegate — a 17-person cluster of RVs and modest homes — with an identity, and weary drivers with a rare and towering landmark on the 280-mile stretch of highway known as the "Loneliest Road in America."

The shoe tree was something in the middle of nothing, and perhaps that's why its destruction has been so deeply felt.

On Dec. 30, under an inky sky, one vandal, or maybe more, downed the tree with a chainsaw. The roughly 80-year-old cottonwood toppled into a gully, its branches jutting out like arms trying to flag down help.

Though shoe trees have sprouted in California, Oregon, Oklahoma and New York, the depth of the mourning for Nevada's cottonwood is remarkable. Facebook groups lamented the tree's "murder." "Middlegate Shoe Tree — Rest in Peace" has nearly 1,500 members. The group "The Shoe Tree Conspiracy" intends to create art, perhaps sculpture, from the cottonwood's Nikes and Keds.

The Churchill County history museum in Fallon scooped up cowboy boots and flippers to display alongside a chunk of the tree. Even Nevada Gov. Brian Sandoval chimed in, telling the Las Vegas Review-Journal, "I was devastated, just devastated, that some vandals would cut down the shoe tree."

There's a kinship between man and tree that's not easily explained. Trees have starred in Greek mythology, Native American traditions, Christian parables and modern literature, often personifying wisdom and durability. A tree usually outlasts those who relish its beauty and shade. Chopping one down? Sacrilege.

Along Highway 50, locals marveled at the shoe tree's ability to withstand punishing environs where even tumbleweeds are rare. Wind is fierce and water scarce. Charles Brown, a 53-year-old truck driver who lives nearby, often winced at the footwear weighing down the cottonwood's branches.

"I felt sorry for the tree. It degraded it. Trees take a lifetime to grow out here," he said.

There were so many shoes in the tree that, every few months, state workers hauled off several truckloads' worth — as well as couches, bicycles and kitchen sinks that littered the ground nearby.

Neither Brown nor his fiancée, Cheryl Holokan, 53, ever added their shoes. (If anything, Holokan said, locals were more inclined to swipe the gently worn pairs that were sometimes discarded.) But when the couple learned of the tree's untimely end, the news landed like a gut punch.

"That tree deserved more respect," Holokan said.

In Middlegate, Stevenson cried. Her husband, Russ, did too. "It was like a good friend had just died," said Stevenson, who was startled by the intensity of her reaction. Why was she weeping for a tree? For weeks, she mulled the answer.

Stevenson, who declined to give her age, arrived at this former Pony Express stop in 1984, determined to revive a bar abandoned by previous caretakers. She nicknamed the roughly 70-foot-tall cottonwood down the highway "Mother Tree"; it towered over a few other cottonwoods nearby.

She eventually transformed the foreclosed bar's carcass into a homey, wood-paneled restaurant and bar with a small motel and two fuel pumps: one for diesel, one for regular gas. (Want premium? Keep driving. Fallon, the nearest city, is about 50 miles away.) Regulars included Gold Dust Bob, Drifter Dave and Sleeping Bag Bill, the last so named for the bedding strapped to his motorcycle.

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