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The Review: Black Hogg is a beguiling entry on Silver Lake scene

Gastropub chef-owner Eric Park slips a lot of flavor and a little heat into almost every dish.

June 02, 2012|By S. Irene Virbila | Los Angeles Times Restaurant Critic

I think by now I've had everything on the menu. Steamed mussels in a silky sauce with juicy smoked bacon lardons and toast make a terrific dish to share. The kitchen also turns out a credible version of fish and chips. The cod is moist and flaky, but the ruffled potato chips can be a bit greasy and just don't have enough heft for the fish. Mary's brick chicken is a sure bet, crisp and moist, served with halved Brussels sprouts in an anchovy vinaigrette. Weightlifter types dig into the hearty longaniza sausage hash crowned with a fried egg. Any of these main-course plates — most well under $20 — could be supper all on their own.

What used to be the one and only dessert, chai-spiced churros, has just been joined by a lovely brioche bread pudding with rhubarb, vanilla-scented cream and toasted hazelnuts.

Once the wine and beer license comes through, the restaurant will serve local wines and draft beers. Until that happens, buck up and have a cocktail or a beer somewhere down the street beforehand — and cross your fingers that the city signs off on the license soon. This dynamic new gastropub is too important an addition to the neighborhood to lose.

Exciting new Silver Lake gastropub from Spotted Pig alum (and L.A. native) Eric Park. Try the pork belly tacos, chicken livers with chicken cracklin', lamb burger, and mussels with smoky bacon. It's all good.

Location: 2852 W. Sunset Blvd. (at Parkman Avenue), Silver Lake, (323) 953-2820,

Prices: Oysters, $3 each; dishes, $4 to $21; desserts, $8. Beer and wine license in progress.

Details: Open 6 to 11 p.m. Mondays to Saturdays. No reservations. Valet parking available around the corner on Parkman Avenue.

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