I think by now I've had everything on the menu. Steamed mussels in a silky sauce with juicy smoked bacon lardons and toast make a terrific dish to share. The kitchen also turns out a credible version of fish and chips. The cod is moist and flaky, but the ruffled potato chips can be a bit greasy and just don't have enough heft for the fish. Mary's brick chicken is a sure bet, crisp and moist, served with halved Brussels sprouts in an anchovy vinaigrette. Weightlifter types dig into the hearty longaniza sausage hash crowned with a fried egg. Any of these main-course plates — most well under $20 — could be supper all on their own.
What used to be the one and only dessert, chai-spiced churros, has just been joined by a lovely brioche bread pudding with rhubarb, vanilla-scented cream and toasted hazelnuts.
Once the wine and beer license comes through, the restaurant will serve local wines and draft beers. Until that happens, buck up and have a cocktail or a beer somewhere down the street beforehand — and cross your fingers that the city signs off on the license soon. This dynamic new gastropub is too important an addition to the neighborhood to lose.