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Counter Intelligence: Cooks County, fresher than modern

At the new restaurant from chef Daniel Mattern and pastry chef Roxana Jullapat, it's not a dish you fall in love with, it's a sensibility.

March 23, 2012|By Jonathan Gold | Los Angeles Times Restaurant Critic

The people who come to Cooks County tend to come here a lot — it's a restaurant you could visit three times a week and then come back for oxtail hash and cheese biscuits at Sunday brunch.

Jullapat is one of the most accomplished young pastry chefs in Los Angeles at the moment, very much of the homey Nancy Silverton school. Her seasonal fruit desserts unfold with the logic of a dream: tangelo custard pie with tangelo ice cream; strawberry-rhubarb semifreddo with wine-stewed Harry's Berries strawberries; and a kind of grapefruit trifle — she calls it a fool — with layered Devonshire cream, lemon curd and crumbled cake. Even when she misses, as with a take on the Iranian fried Ramadan sweet zulbia that seems closer to failed churros, her aesthetic is strong and true.

Cooks County

Daniel Mattern and Roxana Jullapat: This week's farmers market, on a plate; pan-Mediterranean cooking sunny as an L.A. afternoon.

Location: 8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 653-8009,

Prices: Dinner appetizers, $8-$13; main courses, $16-26; desserts, $9-$10.

Details: Open 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays to Fridays, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays, 6 p.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays; 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays for brunch, and 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays. Street parking.

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