There's a new cookbook from Mile End Delicatessen, the diminutive Brooklyn restaurant founded by the young couple Noah and Rae Bernamoff to celebrate Jewish comfort food. It’s grandma’s food given a chefly spin by law school dropout Noah. (Rae runs the front of the house.)
The place looks good (on my list for next visit to New York) and the recipes look great. Learn how to smoke meat, brine and steam brisket, render schmaltz and make chopped liver seasoned with quatre-épices (a spice mixture that’s equal parts white pepper, ginger, cloves and cinnamon.)
The Bermanoffs salt-cure salmon, pickle belly lox and pretty much everything else. They serve blintzes with fruit compote, but also tell you how to make a traditional applesauce.
Some of the dishes come from the Montreal Jewish community where Noah grew up, and they look like keepers. I’m ready to make chicken soup with kreplach or matzo balls. Maybe both ways. They’ve even got a recipe for matzoh and the mandelbrot comes from Noah’s late grandmother, Nana Lee.