In a new occasional series, Betty Hallock explores all things meaty and fatty.
Did you know that Tyler Wells, the co-founder of Handsome Coffee Roasters, is also a swell cook? He'll be serving a pop-up dinner (hosted by This Is Not a Pop-Up) at Square One in Hollywood this week and on the menu is 35-day dry-aged steak frites. So let's talk about this steak.
THE CUT: Wells collaborated with Alex Jermasek, who worked at Lindy & Grundy and is now in charge of meat fabrication at Short Order. Jermasek has been dry-aging ("for a whole month and half a week," he says) organic grass-fed beef from Stemple Creek Ranch in Tomales, Calif. The meat "develops this crust and as it ages it concentrates the flavor -- really nutty, oaky, full-flavored, grassy, buttery beef." Two cuts are used from the hindquarter of the cow, splitting the sirloin strip and top sirloin.
HOW IT'S COOKED: With beef tallow, the fat that comes from the same section of the cow as the steaks. The tallow is ground and simmered in a rondeau for 45 minutes until "it renders out into this beautiful golden fat you can cook in," Wells says. "I'll be doing some combination of sous vide/poaching them in beef tallow and searing them on a flat top, just under medium rare. These steaks really shine on the rare side." The French fries, cut from Kennebec potatoes, will be triple fried in tallow.