These are the noodles I want to make in the new year. The photo is of the pappardelle my friend Jim Henkens, a photographer from Seattle, made this summer on Lummi island, where he’s restoring an old cottage. I want to feel that shock of gold through my fingers.
Jim learned to make pasta from Justin Neidermeyer, the opening chef at Cascina Spinasse in Seattle, who in turn learned to make fresh pasta from Cinto, the legendary tajarin-maker at the trattoria Antica Torre in Barbaresco (Piedmont, Italy).
Tajarin are thin hand-cut noodles made with an astonishing proportion of egg yolks to flour—as many as 40 yolks to a kilo (2.2) pounds of flour. That’s what makes the dough so yellow.