So what do cooks do while they wait for tomato season? Enjoy the ripe citrus available now, Food editor Russ Parsons says:
"The cook's year can be divided in two: tomato and not-tomato. But sometimes, even the best-intentioned, most locavore-crazy among us so crave a sweet, tart bite in our salads that we break down and grab one of those cottony out-of-season tennis balls. You've done it too. Don't try to deny it.