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Paris Fashion Week spring 2014: Alexander McQueen review

October 02, 2013|By Booth Moore, Los Angeles Times Fashion Critic

PARIS -- A Mondrian-inspired geometric sandbox and a silken sky were the set for Alexander McQueen designer Sarah Burton's spring 2014 collection shown Tuesday evening at Paris Fashion Week.

The inspiration: Early 20th century artists, including Mondrian and Picasso. Primitive shapes, graphic forms and bold color, according to show notes.

The look: A 1920s tribal cabaret.

Key pieces: Kilts and dresses with pleats and folds of every kind -- sunray, box, knife pleats and more in perforated leather, black-and-white check, or with red, scroll-like details. Worn with leather harness tops or biker jackets, and gold cloche helmets. Tiered, horsehair fringe skirts and belly-baring tops. Red ostrich feather gowns that brought to mind Josephine Baker. 

The verdict: A welcome departure from the hyper-pretty collections that Burton has shown since taking over from the house's namesake designer, toward something a little tougher and more modern. Yet somehow the whole experience felt flat and emotionless.


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