November 19, 1989 |
One of the silliest and most fun times of the year for real wine lovers is mid-November, when the first wine of the harvest--Beaujolais Nouveau--is released. The release of this wine in France, which occurred last Thursday, annually coincides with the American Thanksgiving. And it's pure coincidence that Nouveau Beaujolais is the perfect wine for the traditional turkey dinner.
November 18, 1985 |
When the first bottles of this year's fruity red Beaujolais Nouveau wine are uncorked worldwide Thursday, one will be a little different. It's kosher. Yves Roye makes the only kosher Beaujolais Villages, one of France's first new wines of the season. This year, by government decree, these wines can be popped open around the world starting Thursday. Roye started making kosher wine seven years ago. This year he hopes to sell 50,000 bottles.
November 19, 1989 |
It's not that Californians wanted to copy anyone, or that they wanted to jump into the fast lane of trendiness, but the idea of producing a nouveau-style Beaujolais was a perfect one for the north coast of the state. It all started a decade ago when Pinot Noir wasn't selling in the United States. French red Burgundy was still then considered king and prices for some of the better ones weren't excessive (that certainly has changed).
November 20, 2013 |
This Thursday is the third Thursday in November, and you know what that means - Beaujolais Nouveau! That's when Beaujolais' vin primeur (wine sold in the same year it is harvested) is released, miraculously, ready to celebrate. In France, wine bars pour prodigious amounts of the fresh, fruity wine. I remember a Paris friend inviting me for lunch on the third Thursday of November and tasting oh, five or six bottles, each different, he'd picked up at his local wine shop. Here in L.A., we don't tend to make such a fuss.
April 1, 2013 |
Ever since I got Seattle chef John Sundstrom's cookbook and iPad app " Lark: Cooking against the Grain " (Community Supported Cookbooks, $50 for the book; $9.99 for the app), I've been cooking out of the book like crazy. For a Sunday supper, his mustard roasted chicken with drippings, potatoes and chard is easy as can be. Basically he mixes together equal parts Dijon mustard and whole grain mustard with minced shallot, thyme leaves, a glug of olive oil and a big splash of white wine.
October 25, 1990 |
Beaujolais wine growers have sent U.S. authorities assurances that their popular, status-symbol wine is virtually free of a fungicide banned in the United States, French government officials said today. The assurances, contained in a survey of about 400 vintners, are expected to open the door to exports of the fruity Beaujolais nouveau wine to the United States next month.
August 13, 1997 |
Here's a lighthearted Beaujolais-Villages that's not trying to be anything but Beaujolais. Lively and thirst-quenching, this juicy, non-filtered Gamay makes delicious summer drinking. It's bright cherry in color, sweetly scented with raspberries, yet has enough darker overtones that it's not cloying. Serve it slightly chilled in this weather. It should go with just about everything, except fish.
December 6, 2000 |
Beaujolais Nouveau is not all there is to Beaujolais--thank heavens. The 10 Beaujolai crus, that is, wines from villages that merit their own appellation, have always offered good quality for the price. Morgon produces notably denser and longer-lived Beaujolais. The "Jean Descombes" Morgon from Beaujolais' best known producer, Georges Duboeuf, is a subtle charmer.
November 19, 1992 |
Pierre Ferraud remembers the worst times of Beaujolais, the days, not so many years ago, when the region was considered a poor cousin in the family of France's wine-producing territories. Back then, hardscrabble farmers in the region's south, near Lyon, produced what the French call a "little wine"--a fruity, light wine made in the fall and immediately sold in Lyonnais cafes. It was hardly worth aging.
February 4, 2004 |
Real Beaujolais is as different from Beaujolais Nouveau as a bassoon is from a piccolo. Whereas the new wine is meant to be drunk right after the harvest, Cote de Brouilly and any of the other crus are made to last. Maybe not 10 years, but certainly a few, that is, if you manage to keep any bottles around that long. The 2002 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly is juicy and lush, tasting like ripe black cherries with something darker and more complex in the background.