November 19, 1989 |
It's not that Californians wanted to copy anyone, or that they wanted to jump into the fast lane of trendiness, but the idea of producing a nouveau-style Beaujolais was a perfect one for the north coast of the state. It all started a decade ago when Pinot Noir wasn't selling in the United States. French red Burgundy was still then considered king and prices for some of the better ones weren't excessive (that certainly has changed).
April 1, 2013 |
Ever since I got Seattle chef John Sundstrom's cookbook and iPad app " Lark: Cooking against the Grain " (Community Supported Cookbooks, $50 for the book; $9.99 for the app), I've been cooking out of the book like crazy. For a Sunday supper, his mustard roasted chicken with drippings, potatoes and chard is easy as can be. Basically he mixes together equal parts Dijon mustard and whole grain mustard with minced shallot, thyme leaves, a glug of olive oil and a big splash of white wine.
September 27, 2006 |
WHAT is Margaret Fox, the most famous chef ever to cook in Mendocino County, doing working at a grocery store in Fort Bragg? Technically she's the culinary director, which she says means "basically anything having to do with cooking." But in truth, Fox may be doing more to introduce the region's residents to good food at the market than she ever did running a destination restaurant. Not long ago, breakfast at Fox's Cafe Beaujolais was the highlight of every foodie's Mendocino pilgrimage.
October 25, 1990 |
Beaujolais wine growers have sent U.S. authorities assurances that their popular, status-symbol wine is virtually free of a fungicide banned in the United States, French government officials said today. The assurances, contained in a survey of about 400 vintners, are expected to open the door to exports of the fruity Beaujolais nouveau wine to the United States next month.
August 13, 1997 |
Here's a lighthearted Beaujolais-Villages that's not trying to be anything but Beaujolais. Lively and thirst-quenching, this juicy, non-filtered Gamay makes delicious summer drinking. It's bright cherry in color, sweetly scented with raspberries, yet has enough darker overtones that it's not cloying. Serve it slightly chilled in this weather. It should go with just about everything, except fish.
December 6, 2000 |
Beaujolais Nouveau is not all there is to Beaujolais--thank heavens. The 10 Beaujolai crus, that is, wines from villages that merit their own appellation, have always offered good quality for the price. Morgon produces notably denser and longer-lived Beaujolais. The "Jean Descombes" Morgon from Beaujolais' best known producer, Georges Duboeuf, is a subtle charmer.
November 19, 1992 |
Pierre Ferraud remembers the worst times of Beaujolais, the days, not so many years ago, when the region was considered a poor cousin in the family of France's wine-producing territories. Back then, hardscrabble farmers in the region's south, near Lyon, produced what the French call a "little wine"--a fruity, light wine made in the fall and immediately sold in Lyonnais cafes. It was hardly worth aging.
February 4, 2004 |
Real Beaujolais is as different from Beaujolais Nouveau as a bassoon is from a piccolo. Whereas the new wine is meant to be drunk right after the harvest, Cote de Brouilly and any of the other crus are made to last. Maybe not 10 years, but certainly a few, that is, if you manage to keep any bottles around that long. The 2002 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly is juicy and lush, tasting like ripe black cherries with something darker and more complex in the background.
February 17, 1994 |
When I heard that the 1993 Beaujolais were soon to arrive in the United States, I mentioned it to a friend. "Didn't we drink the Beaujolais last November?" he asked. It took a moment to realize the significance of his response, and how it indicates bad things for lovers of true Beaujolais. My friend remembered drinking Beaujolais Nouveau, the fragrant new wine of the vintage, the vin de l'annee , which comes to market each fall.