July 3, 2002 |
I wander around these days enveloped in the distinct odor of burning wood. People have been remarking on it, and I apologize to any who are offended. Smoke just stays with you, and I've been obsessed with smoking food lately. I wasn't always this way. When I was a kid, I used to make my own custom hamburger sauce out of every condiment in the cupboard, and one day I ill-advisedly put a whole tablespoon of liquid smoke into the mix. When I tasted it, I gagged violently.
August 29, 2007
Total time: About 1 hour, 30 minutes plus chilling time Servings: 4 Note: Adapted from "Korean Cooking for Everyone" by Ji Sook Choe and Yukiko Moriyama. Dongchimi kimchi and Korean buckwheat or arrowroot noodles are available at Korean markets (the noodles often come with soup-base seasoning packets, which can be discarded). Asian hot mustard and rice wine vinegar are available at Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets. 1 pound beef brisket (1 to 1 1/2 inches thick)
August 9, 2013 |
After reading 27-year-old Max Perry's Op-Ed article " Poor Memory? Forget it " in my old-fashioned print newspaper, I laughed both at his irony and his naivete. He is right that we older folk say, "Shoot me when my memory loss gets too bad. " But, then he says, "Go with the flow. " That it's not "cataclysmic. " Dear Max, let me explain this memory loss we are so willing to be shot over. I see your point, it's just a cocker spaniel whose name we forgot. If we had dementia we would think that dog was one of our kids.
June 25, 1989 |
Look at this mustard. It's practically white. What's going on? I'm in Westwood Village, that village of mighty office buildings, first-run movie theaters and a major university, at a place called the Village Deli. There's a yearning about the place. It wants to be something: perhaps a deli for all these villagers, perhaps the ultimate California deli, perhaps even the Deli of the Future. The results seem odd. For instance, the Village Deli likes to think of itself as having classic New York-style decor, though there are big California picture windows, not to mention the potted plants, particularly in the second-story outdoor dining patio.
March 31, 2012 |
Looking for something different in terms of red wine? Try this lovely 100% Mencia aged in French oak from the tiny, highly regarded Algueira winery in Galicia. It tastes of blueberries and blackberries, cool forest and earth. Rich and intense, the 2007 Adega Algueira "Algueira" is reminiscent of a northern Rhone and has the acidity to hold its own against big, bold flavors. Region: Galicia, Spain Price: From $25 to $32 Style: Rich and full-bodied What it goes with: Brisket, calves liver, tripe, pork and beef Where to find It: K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323)
January 26, 2013 |
Syrah doesn't exactly leap to mind when thinking about Oregon reds. But here's a wonderful example from the tiny Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden in Applegate Valley (that's in southern Oregon). One sip and I was ready to buy a case. Why? Because it's tremendously food-friendly, not overly extracted, a Syrah that's graceful and poised, bright with flavors of cherry and cassis and sporting a snazzy bit of acidity. I don't know what it is about the valley where the grapes are grown, but this wine is reminiscent of Syrah from the northern Rhone.