January 26, 2013 |
What you think about Cortez is going to depend in large part on what you think about crowds, and noise, and screechy jazz, about well-meaning servers who are slightly impatient with the idea of service, and about spending most of an hour leaning up against a shoe box-narrow windowsill waiting for a seat to open up. If the idea of crashing a dinner party at the apartment of a friend of a friend sounds appealing, you're probably going to have a...
December 29, 2012 |
Although summer claims many of the sexiest, most attention-grabbing vegetables, such as eggplants, tomatoes, peppers and zucchini, in Southern California the vegetables that thrive in winter are equally abundant and alluring. Roots, crucifers and peas may be available year-round, but winter is their time to shine. In the spirit of the many award ceremonies held in this season, here are some of my favorite early winter vegetables and producers who do an extraordinary job with them, based on notes, photos and tastings over the last 14 years.
December 22, 2012 |
What am I cooking for Christmas dinner? Well a goose, of course, a fine, fat one, cooked in the Barbara Kafka way that involves high heat and an hour of resting in the cooling oven; and my mom's sweet-and-sour red cabbage; and blanched Brussels sprouts finished in hot fat. There will be no foie gras this year for the obvious reason, so there may be another pâté, something absurdly luxurious made from pheasant and juniper berries or some such....
November 22, 2012 |
It is Thanksgiving morning. As you read this, the bird, a fine 16-pounder, is coming to room temperature on the counter. The green beans have been topped and tailed, and my fingertips smart from peeling smoking-hot chestnuts for the stuffing. I've reminded my mother-in-law that she needn't bring the cranberry sauce - my cranberries are chilling in the refrigerator next to the bottles of Alsatian Riesling. I still have to blanch the Brussels sprouts, whip the cream and peel a mountain of potatoes, but I am locked into the rhythm of the day. My knife work is clumsy, and my soufflés may occasionally fall, but I know how to do this meal.
November 17, 2012
Total time: 1½ hours Servings: 4 to 6 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/4 pound applewood smoked bacon, cut crosswise into thin strips 1 large onion, diced ¾ inch 2 packed cups leftover turkey meat, diced ¾ inch 1 pound (about 2 medium) baked garnet yams, diced ¾ inch (candied leftover yams can be substituted) 2 cups cooked Brussels sprouts, cut into quarters 1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh sage leaves Salt and pepper to taste 6 ounces (about 1½ cups)
November 15, 2012 |
As of late September chef Bejamin Bailly has no longer helmed the kitchen at Dana Hollister's Silver Lake restaurant, Cliff's Edge. A little under a year after Bailly overhauled the restaurant's menu in a move that generated significant buzz , Bailly has been replaced by former Public Kitchen & Bar chef Vartan Abgaryan. No reason has been given for Bailly's departure, but Hollister and team welcome Abgaryan and his new menu featuring local, seasonal seafood, meats and veggies.