Budapest Hungary

Ihad arrived here during a punishing cold stretch of winter that kept me cooped up in my flat within the shadow of mighty St. Stephen's Basilica -- and in earshot of its hourly gong. When I went out, it was mostly to nearby cafes to sip double espressos and watch people shuffling by. Spring arrived seemingly overnight. Suddenly, the city was bursting with energy -- and so was I. This coincided with a friend's visit, the perfect time to explore the city's grittier night life.

Inside the Siraly coffeehouse in Budapest's Seventh District, the air is smoky and the tables are crowded with the young, cool and Jewish. They are sipping creamed coffees and Hungarian merlots, chatting about theater and planning for a Hanukkah that will include music from jazz jams to klezmer and a menorah made from recycled materials. Another evening might feature Hebrew hip-hop, a spirited debate with some of the country's leading intellectuals. Or an Iranian film.

TWO remarkable things happened in Budapest around 1900: The city shot up almost overnight, and Art Nouveau arrived, reshaping the face of Hungary's capital along glorious new lines. It was a happy coincidence for Budapest then and for visitors now, especially those who have a passion for Art Nouveau, which put its richly ornamental stamp on buildings, furniture, glass, ceramics, textiles and jewelry.

Budapest, Hungary As I puzzled over a sign with too many letters I didn't recognize, a soft voice with a strange accent said, "I think I can help you." I was in the Rudas baths, a 16th century Turkish-style building by the Danube River, and I was one confused American behind the Iron Curtain. That voice belonged to Mr. Imre, whose first name I never learned. But I did find out that he had long before emigrated from his native Hungary to Canada and was back for a family visit that fall of 1984.

Forget the Baroque promenades, the Danube River vistas and the Old World charm that make this regal capital one of the top business and tourist destinations in Eastern Europe: Istvan Bosze and his friends would rather be at the mall. Not that Bosze knows a whole lot about shopping malls. He's only seen three, and the first of those just opened here last fall. But make no mistake about it. Malls are the coolest thing. Ever.