November 2, 2013
Oysters Rockefeller 40 minutes, plus cooling time. 24 oysters About 5 tablespoons (2½ ounces) butter, divided, plus melted butter for drizzling over the oysters before baking Generous ¾ cup (3½ ounces) finely diced fennel 3/4 teaspoon minced garlic 1/3 cup Pernod About 12 loosely packed cups (11 1/3 ounces) cleaned spinach 1/2 teaspoon (2/3 ounce) sea salt 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (scant 1½ ounces) heavy cream 24 medium oysters, preferably East Coast oysters with a deep cup, such as Naked Cowboys, Malpeque, Beau Soliel or Wellfleet About ½ cup fresh white bread crumbs 1. In a straight-sided sauté pan, melt 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat.
November 2, 2013
35 minutes, plus freezing time for the butter. 24 clams About 1¾ cups (3½ ounces) fresh white bread crumbs About 1 cup (2 2/3 ounces) panko bread crumbs 2 cups, loosely packed (1 ounce) parsley leaves (stemmed, washed and dried) 1 generous cup, loosely packed (½ ounce) basil leaves (stemmed, washed and dried) Scant ½ teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon chopped garlic 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) butter, softened 24 middleneck clams (large littleneck clams can be substituted)
November 2, 2013 |
A pristine oyster on the half shell, unadorned, fresh, cold and briny, is a near-perfect thing. A properly shucked littleneck clam, alone, or with a drop or two of lemon and Tabasco, will make you say mmmm, every time. But just because these shellfish are so good raw doesn't mean we shouldn't cook them too. Properly cooked shellfish is a wonderful thing. The cooking intensifies and transforms the flavor. Oysters especially change completely when cooked, seeming rich and fatty in the best way, while in the raw state they are anything but. You've got to be careful when cooking either type of shellfish, though.
August 3, 2013 |
Had someone asked me before a performance of Pergolesi's "Stabat Mater" at the Hollywood Bowl on Thursday night what I thought about Scott Simon's live tweeting his mother's death, I would have answered that I am not among the multitude of moved twitterati. I interpreted an NPR newscaster's employment of sympathy as a form of emotional self-aggrandizement, a warm bath of pathos. You could, however, level the same complaints against Pergolesi. He sugarcoated as sorrowful a text as you'll find in the liturgy.
August 2, 2013
Total time: 1 hour, plus overnight chilling Servings: Makes about 5 1/2 dozen Note: From test kitchen director Donna Deane 1/2 cup pine nuts 2 1/2 cups flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup butter 1 1/4 cups confectioners sugar 1 egg 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped thyme 1 cup finely chopped dried apricots 1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Toast the pine nuts on a baking sheet in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes, or until very lightly browned.
July 16, 2013
Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes Servings: 8 to 10 1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) plus 3 tablespoons butter, divided 1 vanilla bean, cut in half lengthwise 1/3 cup milk 1/2 cup brown sugar 6 to 8 ripe plums or 6 nectarines or peaches 1/2 cup sugar 1 egg 1 1/4 cups cake flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. 2. Cut one-fourth cup butter into pieces and add it to a small saucepan or skillet. Heat over medium heat until the butter browns but does not burn.