December 22, 2012 |
Maybe it's the nip in the air. Maybe it's the proximity to the holidays, but this time of year I'm craving oysters. And I don't mean a measly half-dozen but a giant iced platter of glistening raw mollusks ready to be slurped down with Champagne or a minerally white wine. For a long time, Water Grill was the place to go for oysters. It's still a good choice, along with any of Joachim Splichal's restaurants. But happily we now have more places that are featuring oysters on their menus on a regular basis, and often at very good prices, which means you can eat lots.
September 28, 2005 |
The U.S. government is preparing to ban imports of beluga caviar to help prevent extinction of the sturgeon that produces the prized eggs. Trade in beluga sturgeon -- one of 25 species of sturgeon -- would be suspended, a Fish and Wildlife Service spokesman said. That includes the black caviar and meat of the beluga sturgeon. The service planned to announce the ban this week. The ban will start as soon it is published in the Federal Register. * Also Constellation Brands Inc.
January 4, 2006 |
The United Nations on Tuesday all but blocked caviar exports until the producing country could provide more information about the sustainability of its sturgeon catch. Many sturgeon species are suffering "serious population declines" and new quotas proposed by exporting countries might not fully reflect the stock reductions or make allowances for illegal fishing, said the U.N.
CALIFORNIA | LOCAL
April 26, 1988 |
At restaurants and hotels around town, he is known as Mr. Zee, the man who sold them caviar. On the Hollywood block where he worked, he was a familiar figure, a tiny man, always in a suit and tie and hat, and always smiling. To his employees at Caviar & Fine Foods Inc., he has been the kindly boss who can't seem to retire, even though he is 84, because "this was his life," as Bob Dickerson, the firm's operations manager, put it. On Monday, Wladimir Zarotschenzeff, which is Mr.
CALIFORNIA | LOCAL
October 29, 2003 |
Mother-and-son leaders of a West Coast caviar-poaching ring were sentenced to partially suspended jail terms Tuesday, capping a two-year effort to protect the largest freshwater fish in North America. Tamara Andreyevna Bugriyev, 51, and her son, Yuriy Stanislavovich Bugriyev, 28, sold roe from Sacramento-San Joaquin River white sturgeon in California, Oregon and Washington.
CALIFORNIA | LOCAL
May 16, 2005 |
Back in the U.S.S.R., said Vitaly Prokopchuk, people seldom observed hunting rules or worried about disappearing species like the Beluga sturgeon. "People who were poachers weren't even secretive about it," said Prokopchuk, who moved to the United States from his native Ukraine 16 years ago as a religious refugee and now works as a Sacramento County sheriff's deputy. "They would dynamite fish if they thought they could put food on the table or make a little money on the side."
December 22, 2004 |
It takes two fish cutters to lift the still-quivering 85-pound white sturgeon onto the prep sink. As one of them slices the fish's belly open from head to tail, he explains that the biggest, best eggs for caviar are near the head. To my eye, the dark gray eggs all look large and well rounded. The roe appears to fill the entire fish; in fact it makes up roughly 12% of its weight. I spoon out some eggs to taste and am struck by how firm, almost hard, they are.
August 16, 1997 |
The wind lifts the nets drying on the beach. A caviar poacher's rowboat has been pulled up on the hot sand. Muscles gleam on a fisherman's bare shoulders, and his pale, watchful eyes reflect the dance of the tides. Magomed the smuggler limps down the beach in southern Russia where he has come, most days this year, to buy supplies for his underworld trade: basins of gleaming black fish eggs, straight from the slashed belly of the sturgeon.