November 8, 2006 |
PRESERVED lemons in half an hour. A new, smarter way to peel and seed a tomato. An inexpensive, easy-to-make chicken liver mousse with a flavor reminiscent of foie gras -- complete with a beautiful aspic. A foolproof method for making spectacular rack of lamb so tender you can cut it with a fork. A cook's holiday wish list? Perhaps. Yet in this cookbook publishing season such wishes are coming true.
November 24, 2004 |
On Rachel! On Rocco! On Nigella and Emeril! Take a walk through the cookbook section of a bookstore this holiday season, and you'll find plenty of titles with blinding TV brightness. It feels like just one more piece of evidence that the influence of food TV has gone beyond what's on the dial; it now abides deep in our culture. That's great for TV fans, but what about the rest of us?
December 17, 1989 |
Ellmer is a chef-instructor at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and he writes in a straightforward manner that makes the recipes easy to follow. Don't be put off by the designation "for professionals" in the title. This book will appeal to anyone with a serious interest in Italian cuisine. The current generation of pasta lovers will find a long chapter devoted to that item in its many shapes, but pizza lovers will have to look for another book. The dough-based snack is not covered in this one. What you get instead are formulas for such wonderful sounding dishes as stuffed veal tenderloin wrapped in savoy cabbage with garlic and green peppercorn sauce, spring lamb chops stuffed with porcini and sun-dried tomatoes, beef roulades braised in Barolo and deviled grilled chicken with grilled scallions and radicchio.
October 14, 2009 |
Anna Thomas, a few canvas bags hanging on one arm, wanders the rows of the Ventura farmers market just eight hours before her guests are to sit around the table in the soaring great room of her home in Ojai. She chooses yellow onions and prune plums, leeks and walnuts as an ocean breeze cools the shoppers on one of the hottest days of the season. Though she's hardly a familiar name today, Thomas is the one who in the early 1970s lured many a hungry idealist rebelling against a meat-and-potatoes childhood into the kitchen with "The Vegetarian Epicure," a seminal book that came out of nowhere to sell more than 1 million copies.
February 17, 2009 |
Restaurants get a bad rap for serving gargantuan portions of food and contributing to Americans' expanding waistlines. But what if something in your home were equally guilty? Something as innocent as . . . "Joy of Cooking"? The classic cookbook, first published in 1931, has done some girth-expanding of its own, a study has found. Published as a letter Tuesday in the Annals of Internal Medicine, the report examined 18 classic recipes found in seven editions of the book from 1936 to 2006.
December 22, 2011 |
It's become a tradition at the L.A. Times Food section: Every year, we run a holiday essay by a noted Southern California writer reflecting the unique nature of the way we celebrate the season. This year's is by Janet Fitch, whose novels include the best-selling "White Oleander" and "Paint It Black. " We won't be coming home for the holidays this year. My mother no longer lives in our rambling old Wilshire Park home. She moved out in July. She and my father bought the place in 1961, an old house even then, an old-fashioned place with a dining room and a library and closets you could walk into, a million hiding places, even a tiny door for my imaginary friends.
September 16, 2009 |
The culinary tag "Southeast Asian" has cachet in American foodie circles even though it has not yet achieved the all-purpose buzzword status of "Mediterranean" (though I seem to recall that someone has invented a "Southeast Asian turkey burger"). Books about the food of this vast and complex region are multiplying fast. And as with Mediterranean, surveys that encompass at least a few locales somehow get cooks grasping principles faster than ones focused on the food of one place.