Cookingrecipes

  Breakfast is making a comeback in Southern California restaurants -- even in places you might not expect it. Such as at hip Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica, where pastry chef Zoe Nathan makes these amazing biscuits. Made with a full pound of bacon and 1/2 pound of butter, Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila calls them "gloriously crumbly. " So successful was the meal that it's been canceled -- not for the usual reasons, but because Nathan and Rustic Canyon owner Josh Loeb are opening up a bakery-cafe two blocks away.

Total time: 50 minutes Servings: About 15 pancakes Note: This recipe calls for "ripe" starter -- starter that has been fed the night before (see recipe for whole wheat starter). 9 ounces (about 1 cup) "ripe" whole wheat starter 5 ounces (1 cup) flour 1/2 cup milk 2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus a little for the pan 2 large eggs 3 tablespoons maple syrup 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 1. In a large bowl, mix together the starter, flour and milk along with one-half cup water until smooth.

  Neapolitan-style ragu Total time: About 6 hours Servings: 6 to 8 Note: From Russ Parsons. The pork butt cooked in this recipe is not part of the final dish; it flavors the sauce as it cooks and is to be served separately. 2 pounds boneless pork butt, in 1 piece 2 teaspoons salt, divided, more to taste Pepper 2 tablespoons finely minced parsley 1 pound onions, chopped 4 cloves garlic 1/3 cup chopped pancetta 1/4 cup chopped prosciutto 1/4 cup olive oil 2 cups dry red wine 1 (6-ounce)

  Total time: 4 hours, 10 minutes, plus 24 hours marinating time for the lamb Servings: Makes 12 ( 1/4 cup) servings Note: From Octavio Becerra of Palate Food and Wine. Lamb neck, shoulder, shank and fat are available at Huntington Meats, Marconda's Meats and Owen's Market in Los Angeles. Check with your local butcher. Duck fat is available at Whole Foods stores, Surfas in Culver City and other specialty food markets. Becerra packs rillettes in 3-ounce Mason jars, and serves them with croutons and pickles.

  Julienne's graham cracker chewy bars Total time: 45 minutes, plus cooling time Servings: 24 bars Note: Adapted from "Celebrating With Julienne" by Susan Campoy. Campoy writes, "I adapted this recipe from one of my favorite books, 'Nantucket Open-House Cookbook,' by Sarah Leah Chase. I love watching people's expressions when they bite into these bars for the first time. The textures and flavors -- rich toffee, a chewy center and a crunchy bottom -- make everyone smile.

Where to find quince Here are some places to buy quince fruit, trees and products. Gonzaga Farm (Ronnie and Tess Gonzaga). Pineapple quince grown in Lindsay, Calif., at the Alhambra, Cerritos, Buena Park, Long Beach Southeast, Long Beach Uptown and Long Beach Downtown farmers markets. June Taylor Co. (June Taylor). Artisanal organic preserves, available by mail order: quince butter, quince paste, quince cheese. 2207 4th St., Berkeley; (510) 548-2236; www.junetaylorjams.

  Hickory-smoked brisket with Southwestern barbecue sauce Total time: 2 hours, plus 5 to 6 hours smoking time Servings: 6 to 8 Note: This recipe calls for hickory chips and the use of a smoker, or a charcoal grill converted to a smoker. Hickory chips are available at many well-stocked markets as well as at barbecue supply stores. The barbecue sauce makes about 6 cups, more than is needed for this recipe. Any remaining sauce will keep up to 1 week, refrigerated.

It's been called both a "bowl of blessedness" and the "soup of the Devil," and it's the stuff of legend. Frank and Jesse James reputedly downed a few bowls before pulling some of their heists -- and supposedly spared one town because of it. O. Henry spun a short story around it, and Will Rogers allegedly judged a town by its quality. It's said Eleanor Roosevelt tried -- without success -- to get the secrets of one recipe, and that Lyndon B. Johnson remarked that the kind concocted outside his home state of Texas was "usually a weak, apologetic imitation of the real thing."

  Total Time: 30 minutes, plus freezing time Servings: 9 (3-ounce) paletas Our recipes, your kitchen: If you try this or any other recipe from the L.A. Times Test Kitchen, please share it with us: Click here to upload pictures of the finished dish. Note: From recipe tester Noelle Carter. Popsicle molds are available at select Bed, Bath & Beyond stores and online at target.com and amazon.com. 2 pounds (about 2 large) cucumbers, plus an additional half cucumber, divided 1/3 cup fresh lime juice 1/2 cup sugar 1 dried New Mexico chile pepper, slightly crushed 1 teaspoon New Mexico chile powder 1 teaspoon cayenne chile powder 1 teaspoon salt 1. Place empty ice-pop molds in the freezer to chill.

  Total time: 45 minutes, plus cooling time for the quinoa Servings: 6 Note: Umeboshi (plum) vinegar can be found at Whole Foods markets and Asian markets. Umeboshi-lemon dressing 2 teaspoons umeboshi vinegar 1 teaspoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons dill pickle juice 1 tablespoon best-quality olive oil In a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, lemon juice, pickle juice and olive oil. Cover and refrigerate until needed.