CALIFORNIA | LOCAL
January 2, 2000 |
When I called for brunch reservations at the Claes Seafood restaurant in the Hotel Laguna, I was thinking bivalves and crustaceans. But it wasn't to be. Despite the name and stunning location overlooking the Pacific, we found very few of our friends from the sea: only three salmon dishes--with eggs, potatoes or polenta. I asked the food manager why there was so little seafood and he blamed it on the Information Age. He analyzes customers' preferences every year by computer.
April 2, 1989 |
He was repeating himself: "I can't believe I'm eating Brussels sprouts . . . I can't believe I'm eating Brussels sprouts." Occasionally, he'd change the subject: "This is squash--I'm eating squash." He looked confused. "I hate squash," he said. He was also eating turnips. Before that he had munched on fistfuls of parsnip chips. Back when he was 10, he called these vegetables "icky."
October 1, 1987 |
Yom Kippur is observed this Saturday. On this Day of Atonement, Jews customarily fast from sundown the night before to sundown of the day observed. The entire day is spent in prayer, so it is both practical and necessary to plan a dinner to break the fast that can be brought to the table quickly. The hearty vegetable soup may be served hot or cold. Braided loaves of hallah are subtly scented with fresh herbs.
January 6, 1989 |
In her books about her early life, M.F.K. Fisher talks about her parents dressing up and going out to The Victor Hugo to eat. It was obviously a big and very grown-up restaurant. It was, in fact, a downtown landmark until it moved to Beverly Hills in 1934 and ultimately closed. A few years ago, Max au Triangle opened on the site of the old Victor Hugo. That, unfortunately, closed, too. Now there's a new restaurant on the same site. It's called . . . Victor Hugo's, and it's at 235 N.
January 8, 1988 |
Just about everybody in Los Angeles who fantasized about opening a little restaurant some day wanted it to be Dominick's. It was the perfect little place--a rustic cabin plunked improbably down behind Cedars-Sinai. It was a place that was meant to serve steaks, chops and unasked-for advice, and it looked like it had wandered in off some rural American road. It doesn't look like that anymore. The restaurant at 8715 Beverly Blvd.
December 12, 2011 |
It's never too early to make New Year's Eve reservations in Las Vegas . Central (pronounced sen- TRAL ), the Michel Richard restaurant at Caesars Palace , is throwing two parties -- one indoors, one outdoors -- to celebrate 2012. The deal: Richard, who opened Central in Caesars in September, has landmark restaurants in Washington, D.C., and Virginia. On New Year's Eve, the restaurant will throw a small outdoor party for $201.20 per person for about 100 to 120 lucky guests who get to see fireworks over the Strip.
March 26, 1997 |
In Alaska, salmon is a way of life. Everywhere I look in downtown Anchorage, I see the sleek silver fish: salmon on T-shirts, salmon-shaped earrings, salmon depicted on plates, in paintings, rods to catch salmon and tantalizing feather flies to lure them to the line. What will future salmon trends be? I am here to judge the "Symphony of Salmon" contest with 37 salmon products, each representing a new "value-added" idea to diversify sales. My taste buds wilt at the thought.
May 30, 2007 |
GNOCCHI light as clouds, sauces so smooth they're like velvet, macarons that dissolve to nothing in your mouth, pates and mousses as fine as Irish butter, a rain of Parmesan like fine dust. Achieving such kitchen refinement doesn't take a closetful of expensive gadgets -- nor a wave of Harry Potter's wand -- just a single old-fashioned tool. It's called a tamis, or drum sieve, and it looks like a cross between an ordinary strainer and your rock-star son's snare drum.