CALIFORNIA | LOCAL
January 2, 2000 |
When I called for brunch reservations at the Claes Seafood restaurant in the Hotel Laguna, I was thinking bivalves and crustaceans. But it wasn't to be. Despite the name and stunning location overlooking the Pacific, we found very few of our friends from the sea: only three salmon dishes--with eggs, potatoes or polenta. I asked the food manager why there was so little seafood and he blamed it on the Information Age. He analyzes customers' preferences every year by computer.
April 2, 1989 |
He was repeating himself: "I can't believe I'm eating Brussels sprouts . . . I can't believe I'm eating Brussels sprouts." Occasionally, he'd change the subject: "This is squash--I'm eating squash." He looked confused. "I hate squash," he said. He was also eating turnips. Before that he had munched on fistfuls of parsnip chips. Back when he was 10, he called these vegetables "icky."
February 23, 2012 |
When food lovers head to Paris these days, the savvier bypass the Michelin-starred restaurants entirely and seek out the small, sometimes funky bistros where passionate young cooks are turning out wonderful food at affordable prices. Spaces - and kitchens - are often tiny, menus small and changeable. And the wine list may simply be a collection of bottles lined up on shelves. Many come from small or obscure producers who believe in natural (biodynamic, organic) winemaking. A copy of Alice Feiring's "Naked Wine" translated into French might be propped against a bottle of Chinon or Burgundy.
October 1, 1987 |
Yom Kippur is observed this Saturday. On this Day of Atonement, Jews customarily fast from sundown the night before to sundown of the day observed. The entire day is spent in prayer, so it is both practical and necessary to plan a dinner to break the fast that can be brought to the table quickly. The hearty vegetable soup may be served hot or cold. Braided loaves of hallah are subtly scented with fresh herbs.
January 6, 1989 |
In her books about her early life, M.F.K. Fisher talks about her parents dressing up and going out to The Victor Hugo to eat. It was obviously a big and very grown-up restaurant. It was, in fact, a downtown landmark until it moved to Beverly Hills in 1934 and ultimately closed. A few years ago, Max au Triangle opened on the site of the old Victor Hugo. That, unfortunately, closed, too. Now there's a new restaurant on the same site. It's called . . . Victor Hugo's, and it's at 235 N.
March 30, 2005 |
What ever became of charlotte russe? Once upon a time, she was the queen of desserts. It's time to bring back that golden age, when ladyfingers were ladyfingers and desserts did not shrink from simple grandeur. A century and a half ago, charlotte russe swept the world and taught it to crave vanilla, spelling an end to centuries of flavoring desserts with rosewater. She remains one of the grandest vehicles for vanilla's alluring flavor.
January 8, 1988 |
Just about everybody in Los Angeles who fantasized about opening a little restaurant some day wanted it to be Dominick's. It was the perfect little place--a rustic cabin plunked improbably down behind Cedars-Sinai. It was a place that was meant to serve steaks, chops and unasked-for advice, and it looked like it had wandered in off some rural American road. It doesn't look like that anymore. The restaurant at 8715 Beverly Blvd.
December 12, 2011 |
It's never too early to make New Year's Eve reservations in Las Vegas . Central (pronounced sen- TRAL ), the Michel Richard restaurant at Caesars Palace , is throwing two parties -- one indoors, one outdoors -- to celebrate 2012. The deal: Richard, who opened Central in Caesars in September, has landmark restaurants in Washington, D.C., and Virginia. On New Year's Eve, the restaurant will throw a small outdoor party for $201.20 per person for about 100 to 120 lucky guests who get to see fireworks over the Strip.