Fashion Industry

Despite the poor economic times, the H1N1 virus and the advent of new austerity, buyers and press did indeed show up to see the spring-summer 2010 men's collections at the runway shows that wrapped up here Sunday. But the designers? They seemed to be thousands of miles away: tramping around the Egyptian desert (John Galliano), soaring above the clouds (Paul Smith) and even getting ready for a lunar landing (Alfred Dunhill).

By the time the spring-summer 2010 men's Fashion Week in Milan wrapped up Tuesday, the runway had showcased enough old-school macho archetypes to form its own (infinitely more stylish) version of the Village People. While several designers riffed generally on the concept of the nomad and the loner, others were more specific.

The cliche about "green clothing" is that it's one step removed from a burlap sack with armholes and a felt applique of a peace sign or a tree. There is a lot of that genre out there -- especially T-shirts that make their "green" statement by literally being green or brown and splashing a "recycle" icon across the front. But every day there are more stylish and subtle approaches.

"Valentino: The Last Emperor," the title of a new documentary about the icon of haute couture, may sound like canny hyperbole, but once you've seen this smart and incisive film, it will seem like a simple statement of fact. For one thing, Valentino Garavani, a fashion designer so celebrated only his first name is necessary, certainly lives like an emperor. When he travels, it's by private jet with his six pugs always in attendance, or on his 152-foot yacht with a full-time staff of 11.

Being a woman is a blood sport, according to Miuccia Prada, who on Sunday showed her own powerful vision of the tough chic that is emerging as one of the biggest fashion trends for fall. And it didn't involve the rocker wear we've seen from so many other Italian labels, including Gucci. The arena seating should have been a clue.

The runway rectangle may be the focus of New York Fashion Week, but discovering next season's go-to trends is just the tip of the Swarovski crystal when it comes to the doings of the style tribe that descends on the Big Apple. And since we've had our stylish boots on the ground here for eight frigid February days, we thought it only fair to share some of the fashion folderol.

Gray stoked The waves of gray that flooded the European men's runways earlier this season are now lapping at our shores, and the result is a steely crop of men's suits and sportswear. But that hardly meant dull. Labels including Diesel Black Gold, Calvin Klein, G-Star Raw and Monarchy Collection served up Prince of Wales checks, herringbones and color-blocked shades of charcoal, iron and smoke.

The cold winds of recession were blowing through Manhattan on the opening day of New York Fashion Week. At the Bryant Park tents, instead of Starbucks or Lavazza, it was McDonald's pouring the free coffee. Designer Yigal Azrouel's show was sponsored by EBay, which will host a charity sale of his looks at below-retail prices. QVC was preparing for a live runway show on Saturday, with budget-priced clothes available for immediate purchase on TV.

A year ago, designer Thom Browne sent two models down a Milan runway in gray suit jackets, sharing a pair of tailored three-legged suit pants. Six months later, Alexander McQueen showed a men's monokini that attached bikini briefs to a choker neckpiece with a band of fabric. Last month, at his Paris men's runway debut, Gareth Pugh evinced a vision of menswear that involved leather jackets and trousers studded with hundreds of pointy carpet tacks and some orthodontic-looking headgear.

The problem with menswear is that it moves at a glacial pace. The last time there was any significant change in the silhouette was when Hedi Slimane slimmed it all down at Dior Homme in the early aughts. Though Slimane is gone, the look still dominates among the fashionable set on the street, on the red carpet and on the concert stage -- where Mick Jagger and the Jonas Brothers share the same whittled-down wardrobe aesthetic.