December 16, 2010 |
The holidays had an accent at our house. My mother, an inspired cook, filtered American tradition through her French sensibility. It's there in the photos of our first few years in the States ? a crisp-skinned goose on the Thanksgiving table, and at Christmas, a bubbling cassoulet. As the seasons passed, American idiom crept into our kitchen. My mother experimented, learned to roast a turkey, to make cranberry sauce, to melt marshmallows on the yams. It was to this more assimilated holiday table that I first brought that most American of icons ?
January 13, 2011
Real Jewish rye bread Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes, plus rising and cooling times Servings: Makes 1 round loaf (8 to 12 servings) Our recipes, your kitchen: If you try any of the L.A. Times Test Kitchen recipes from this week's Food section, please share it with us: Click here to upload pictures of the finished dish. Note: Adapted from "The Bread Bible" by Rose Levy Beranbaum. Specialty flours and barley malt syrup are available at select well-stocked markets, health food, cooking and baking supply stores, as well as online.
April 5, 2011
'Addicted to Food' Where: OWN When: 10 p.m. Tuesday Rating: TV-PG-L (may be unsuitable for young children with an advisory for coarse language) 'The Judds' Where: OWN When: 9 p.m. Sunday Rating: TV-PG-L (may be unsuitable for young children with an advisory for coarse language)
October 11, 2013
Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes Servings: 6 Note: Adapted from "The Book of New Israeli Food" by Janna Gur. Pomegranate concentrate or molasses is available at select Jons markets, cooking supply stores and Middle Eastern markets. 3 to 4 medium beets 2 tablespoons pomegranate concentrate or molasses 2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice 2 to 3 small, dried red chile peppers, crushed Coarse sea salt 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves 1 cup pomegranate seeds 1/4 cup lightly flavored olive oil 1. Cook the beets in a covered medium saucepan of boiling water until tender, 45 to 50 minutes.
November 23, 2013 |
It's the holidays. The relatives are here, and you're tired of cooking and cleaning and then doing it all over again the next day. You need to get them out of the house - for brunch. Please, not a buffet. No mob scenes. You need a restaurant with a chef who has really thought about the meal that bridges breakfast and lunch. How about salmon slow-smoked over foraged "rabbit tobacco" or a sumptuous octopus hash with smashed fingerling potatoes? Maybe a classic omelet or shirred eggs? To start the meal, of course, you'll have a strong cup of coffee from a micro-roaster or perhaps a mimosa stained fuchsia with prickly pear fruit.
July 14, 2011 |
When tourist James Barker had dinner at the home of his Ethiopian hosts, he knew he'd have to be polite and eat whatever indigenous cuisine they offered him. He didn't know it wouldn't be cooked. Ethiopia is "a nation who generally live[s] on raw meat, and it cannot be supposed that they have made great advancement in their cuisine," the Briton wrote in "Narrative of a Journey to Shoa," an 1868 account of his Ethiopian odyssey. Nearly a sesqui-century later, it looks like Barker was prescient.
September 29, 2013 |
Brian Huskey will be L.A.'s lone hopeful when the new season of Bravo's "Top Chef" premieres on Wednesday. The Pasadena native, who started his career at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco, decided to take a culinary journey around the world after he finished his training. During his travels, he learned to incorporate Asian, French and Peruvian influences into his food. He eventually returned to L.A. and landed a job with Ricardo Zarate. Huskey helped Zarate open Picca and Mo-Chica and currently works as a saucier at Paiche.
January 12, 2013 |
If you want to understand Bestia, you should probably take a look at the cassoeula , a version of a traditional cabbage stew popular in Milan. At Alfredo de Gran San Bernardo, the Milanese businessmen's restaurant where I first tried the dish, cassoeula was delicious but austere, a sort of cabbagey pot-au-feu whose highlight was a slippery scrap of boiled pig's forehead. At Bestia, chef Ori Menashe's cassoeula is no less austere: pork ribs, veal ribs and sausage presented in a crock of strong broth; meat simmered almost to gelatin, greens cooked to the point where they tear at the touch of a fork.
November 2, 2013 |
If you have spent much time in L.A.'s farmers markets, you have probably run into C.J., Chris Jacobson, an affable chef, tall enough to be an NBA power forward, who seems to know every farmer in town. He worked on the line for a while at the old Campanile, where everybody called him Stretch, and he ran the Yard, a small gastropub in Santa Monica known for its beer list and fish tacos but which he managed to nudge toward fine dining at the end. As you might expect from a young Los Angeles chef, Jacobson did his time on TV, including "Top Chef," and he consulted for restaurant owners more interested in building a bar crowd than in nurturing cuisine.
May 11, 2013
You'll be able to sample bulgur dishes and many more Turkish specialties at the Anatolian Cultures & Food Festival, May 16 to 19 at the Orange County Fairgrounds. For more information on the festival, visit anatolianfestival.org.