November 26, 2011
If you want to have a globe-trotting culinary adventure without leaving the island of Roatán, Honduras, I recommend an evening at Ooloonthoo Indian Cuisine. Owner-chef Paul James, who is from Canada and a classically trained French chef, has been cooking his wife Soden's family recipes in a beautiful restaurant overlooking the ocean just outside West End. Two-course meals from $37.50. Open for dinner, by reservation only. Ooloonthoo Indian Cuisine, Main Road, Mangrove Bight; 011-504-9936-5223, http://www.ooloonthoo.com Robert Helgeson Jr. Monarch Beach
August 15, 2012 |
It's the 100th anniversary of the birth of Julia Child, the American who learned how to cook like a French chef while living abroad and brought those skills home with "Mastering the Art of French Cooking," published in 1961. Later, Child became a wonderful, batty television host, cooking on the fly for PBS and sipping as much sherry as she liked. Child's cookbook was a success, of course, but it ran counter to midcentury America's enthusiasm for prepared, packaged foods. Boning a duck on your own was about as far as you could get from putting a TV dinner in the oven.
January 29, 2013 |
Chef moves where? Readers will sometimes write in about a restaurant that's been gone for 10 or more years, wondering what happened. Maybe they don't get out much, but even frequent restaurant-goers can get so distracted with all the new places opening that they miss the quiet slipping away of an old favorite. For anybody wondering what happened to French chef Jean-François Meteigner when he closed up La Cachette Bistro in Santa Monica in late 2011, the L'Orangerie alum is now cooking in - Vietnam !
October 11, 2012 |
By its description - a renowned French chef readies to hand off his three-Michelin-star restaurant to his talented son - one might reasonably expect the documentary "Step Up to the Plate" to be a mouth-watering look at haute cuisine preparation and high-end eatery management. Instead, writer-director Paul Lacoste offers a cerebral, dirge-paced outline of a father-son dynamic that asks the audience to fill in too many narrative and emotional gaps. Michel Bras, the longtime owner of the eponymous restaurant in Southern France's scenic Aubrac region, and his son Sébastien, to whom the influential chef is turning over his stunningly beautiful establishment, are subtle perfectionists with a quietly competitive spirit.
January 30, 2013 |
This year's Bocuse d'Or culinary competition in Lyon, France, culminated in a win for the home team: Thibaut Ruggeri of Maison Lenôtre won the golden Bocuse d'Or statue (in the likeness of the competition's creator, legendary chef Paul Bocuse) and 20,000 euros. Denmark's Jeppe Foldager of Søllerød Kro Holte took home the silver award, and bronze went to Japan's Noriyuki Hamada of Hotel Bleston Court . The U.S. had its hopes pinned on Richard Rosendale, executive chef and food and beverage director of West Virginia's Greenbrier resort, who placed seventh.
August 11, 2012
Nyesha Arrington, a fan favorite from the 2011 season of Bravo's "Top Chef," is the executive chef at Wilshire in Santa Monica , a position she won on Food Network 's "Chef Hunter" competition. In 2012, Zagat.com named Arrington one of the "30 Under 30 - L.A.'s Hottest Up-And-Comers. " A Southern California native, Arrington graduated from the Art Institute of Los Angeles cooking school and worked her way up the line under Josiah Citrin at Lemon Moon and Melisse. She's also worked for legendary French chef Joel Robuchon at his Las Vegas restaurants.
March 3, 2011 |
Chefs seem to be caught playing musical chairs more than usual lately, so much so that it's hard to keep up on all the moves. In mid-November, Ben Bailly, the baby-faced French chef at Petrossian , grabbed the head chef job at Fraîche in Culver City, making way for Giselle Wellman to move from Bouchon to Petrossian. Meanwhile, Fraîche's original chef, the hardworking Jason Travi, has been gone for over a year. Right now he's over at Firefly tweaking the Studio City restaurant's menu (and feeding frequent diner, the great Lucinda Williams)
February 2, 2013 |
Brittany, on the Atlantic coast of France, is famous for its shellfish. The most prized oysters come from Cancale, and the bouchot mussels, just an inch or so long, are tender and sweet. One bowl of those dainty mussels steamed in white wine and shallots turned me into a lifetime mussel lover. Here, Carlsbad Aquafarm in San Diego County sells bags of mussels grown off the California coast at the Hollywood and Santa Monica farmers markets. You can also find some wonderful mussel dishes at restaurants.
February 26, 2003 |
In a nation where chefs are as celebrated as artists, fashion designers or athletes, one's standing in the culinary world can be a matter of life and death. That's why the news that pioneering chef Bernard Loiseau, whose three-star restaurant was the crown of an epicurean empire, was an apparent suicide brought such anguish. Leaders of France's culinary community did not wait for the autopsy to start pointing fingers of blame Tuesday.
May 16, 1985 |
French cooking, famed worldwide for its excellence, may not be so French after all. A government report has found that the country's cooking is mostly prepared by foreign chefs. It is also mostly cooked in foreign-made ovens and eaten from foreign plates. Food writer Jean Ferniot, commissioned by the Culture and Agriculture ministries to report on France's food and wine industry, said the country's lucrative gastronomy industry was dominated by other countries.