November 26, 2011
If you want to have a globe-trotting culinary adventure without leaving the island of Roatán, Honduras, I recommend an evening at Ooloonthoo Indian Cuisine. Owner-chef Paul James, who is from Canada and a classically trained French chef, has been cooking his wife Soden's family recipes in a beautiful restaurant overlooking the ocean just outside West End. Two-course meals from $37.50. Open for dinner, by reservation only. Ooloonthoo Indian Cuisine, Main Road, Mangrove Bight; 011-504-9936-5223, http://www.ooloonthoo.com Robert Helgeson Jr. Monarch Beach
February 26, 2003 |
In a nation where chefs are as celebrated as artists, fashion designers or athletes, one's standing in the culinary world can be a matter of life and death. That's why the news that pioneering chef Bernard Loiseau, whose three-star restaurant was the crown of an epicurean empire, was an apparent suicide brought such anguish. Leaders of France's culinary community did not wait for the autopsy to start pointing fingers of blame Tuesday.
August 15, 2012 |
It's the 100th anniversary of the birth of Julia Child, the American who learned how to cook like a French chef while living abroad and brought those skills home with "Mastering the Art of French Cooking," published in 1961. Later, Child became a wonderful, batty television host, cooking on the fly for PBS and sipping as much sherry as she liked. Child's cookbook was a success, of course, but it ran counter to midcentury America's enthusiasm for prepared, packaged foods. Boning a duck on your own was about as far as you could get from putting a TV dinner in the oven.
August 19, 1999 |
Bistro cooking is the latest rage, it seems. In Los Angeles, places like Mimosa are positively jumping. Up north in the wine country, Bistro Jeanty turns away many more customers than it serves. But a few restaurants have been serving bistro food all along. Take La Fayette, an ancient place on an appropriately sleepy stretch of Garden Grove Boulevard in Garden Grove. The only thing modern about this big, dimly lit room is the towering spray of fresh flowers smack in the middle of it. Otherwise, La Fayette is all Old World charm and faded grandeur: glass chandeliers straight from the set of a Merchant-Ivory production, huge semicircular booths, empty magnums of expensive Bordeaux on the sideboards and a few Renoir prints hung over the tables nearest the kitchen.
February 2, 2013 |
Brittany, on the Atlantic coast of France, is famous for its shellfish. The most prized oysters come from Cancale, and the bouchot mussels, just an inch or so long, are tender and sweet. One bowl of those dainty mussels steamed in white wine and shallots turned me into a lifetime mussel lover. Here, Carlsbad Aquafarm in San Diego County sells bags of mussels grown off the California coast at the Hollywood and Santa Monica farmers markets. You can also find some wonderful mussel dishes at restaurants.
August 11, 2012
Nyesha Arrington, a fan favorite from the 2011 season of Bravo's "Top Chef," is the executive chef at Wilshire in Santa Monica , a position she won on Food Network 's "Chef Hunter" competition. In 2012, Zagat.com named Arrington one of the "30 Under 30 - L.A.'s Hottest Up-And-Comers. " A Southern California native, Arrington graduated from the Art Institute of Los Angeles cooking school and worked her way up the line under Josiah Citrin at Lemon Moon and Melisse. She's also worked for legendary French chef Joel Robuchon at his Las Vegas restaurants.
May 16, 1985 |
French cooking, famed worldwide for its excellence, may not be so French after all. A government report has found that the country's cooking is mostly prepared by foreign chefs. It is also mostly cooked in foreign-made ovens and eaten from foreign plates. Food writer Jean Ferniot, commissioned by the Culture and Agriculture ministries to report on France's food and wine industry, said the country's lucrative gastronomy industry was dominated by other countries.
October 11, 2012 |
By its description - a renowned French chef readies to hand off his three-Michelin-star restaurant to his talented son - one might reasonably expect the documentary "Step Up to the Plate" to be a mouth-watering look at haute cuisine preparation and high-end eatery management. Instead, writer-director Paul Lacoste offers a cerebral, dirge-paced outline of a father-son dynamic that asks the audience to fill in too many narrative and emotional gaps. Michel Bras, the longtime owner of the eponymous restaurant in Southern France's scenic Aubrac region, and his son Sébastien, to whom the influential chef is turning over his stunningly beautiful establishment, are subtle perfectionists with a quietly competitive spirit.
January 30, 2013 |
This year's Bocuse d'Or culinary competition in Lyon, France, culminated in a win for the home team: Thibaut Ruggeri of Maison Lenôtre won the golden Bocuse d'Or statue (in the likeness of the competition's creator, legendary chef Paul Bocuse) and 20,000 euros. Denmark's Jeppe Foldager of Søllerød Kro Holte took home the silver award, and bronze went to Japan's Noriyuki Hamada of Hotel Bleston Court . The U.S. had its hopes pinned on Richard Rosendale, executive chef and food and beverage director of West Virginia's Greenbrier resort, who placed seventh.
March 9, 2013 |
Though the address reads Main Street, the specialist shop Japanese Knife Imports in Venice is a bit hidden away, down a few steps from the parking lot of a nondescript multi-unit building, indicated only by No. 105. "I kind of like it like that," proprietor Jonathan Broida explains. "In order to find me, people have already made some effort to do the research. And I end up with the kind of customer that I want. " Walk into his shop as a novice and he won't just sell you a knife. He'll want to sit down at the low table in the center of the room, preferably over genmaicha tea served in a lovely ceramic tea bowl, made by his wife Sara's family in northern Japan, and explore your relationship to knives.