April 15, 2011 |
Green almonds, which look like small, immature, teardrop-shaped peaches, have started showing up at farmers markets, attracting attention from adventurous chefs. A traditional snack in the Mediterranean and Middle East, they're a foretaste of the main almond harvest to come. But they also have a particular allure from their velvety appearance and ultra-seasonal availability. The first green almonds are tender enough to eat whole and have a herbaceous taste, like a raw pea pod, but tart and astringent.
August 13, 2003 |
At Firefly, everybody arrives with an entourage in tow, or at least a friend or a date as social armor. The Studio City restaurant and bar is too cool to have a sign out front. So you drive up and down Ventura Boulevard until you realize that the darkened, ivy-swathed facade with a couple of valet parkers at the ready must be the spot, if the clutch of young fashion plates stepping out of fancy leased convertibles is any indication. Firefly may be the hippest thing to hit the Valley in years.
August 13, 2008 |
YOU SNAG a parking spot on the street in the middle of Brand Boulevard's endless row of car dealerships and as you get out of the car, you can feel the salesmen go into high alert. A possible buyer for that gas-guzzling truck? No, just another food lover on the way to the most exciting and delicious new restaurant to open in a very long time -- Palate Food + Wine. This is the breakout restaurant for Octavio Becerra, who put in years with Patina Restaurant Group and was the original chef at Pinot Bistro in Studio City.
November 11, 2009 |
It's back to the Boulevard for Gary Menes, who first made a splash when he was cooking Moroccan-accented dishes at the then-newly opened Firefly on Ventura Boulevard in Studio City. Last year he landed as chef de cuisine at Octavio Becerra's Palate Food + Wine in Glendale, where he did some of the best cooking in his career. And now he's joined up with AndrÃ© Guerrero as chef and partner at MarchÃ© L.A. on Ventura Boulevard in Sherman Oaks. The space, in fact, was formerly Guerrero's Max Restaurant.
February 25, 2010 |
André Guerrero grew up eating Filipino food, but you'll find few traces of it on his menu at the Oinkster, and none at all at his new Marché L.A. Nor will you find Filipino food on the menus at Providence, Pizzeria Mozza or Church & State, all prominent local restaurants with Filipino chefs in the kitchens or front offices. Some cuisines, such as the deeply flavorful mélange of foods from the Philippines, seem to resist assimilation into mainstream culture, thriving in home kitchens but stubbornly remaining there.
February 25, 2010
Mom's nilaga Total time: 2 hours, 45 minutes Servings: 6 Note: Adapted from Gary Menes, chef-partner of Marché L.A. Menes says you can also make this in a slow cooker. Serve the nigala atop a bowl of steamed white rice. 5 pounds of bone-in beef short ribs 1 large onion, cut in half and sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips 3 large celery stalks, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces 3 whole cloves garlic 8 whole black peppercorns 1 tablespoon kosher salt 5 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered 1/2 head nappa cabbage, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1. Place the short ribs in a large (7-quart)