September 8, 2012 |
Sang Yoon started the no-substitutions or modifications trope at Father's Office, I think, where he refused to serve his notorious hamburger without blue cheese or countenance ketchup on his fries. Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook turned it into an aesthetic at Animal; you ate their pig's ears and oxtail loco moco their way or you didn't eat it at all. The chefs at sushi bars like Nozawa and Hiko famously threw patrons out of their restaurants when they asked for spicy tuna rolls, and I have no idea what Jordan Kahn at Red Medicine might do if a table asked for the sauce on the side.
June 16, 2012 |
No reservations. Loud. A gastropub from the Counter owner Jeff Weinstein and a consulting chef known for his vegetarian cooking. In theory, Freddy Smalls didn't sound all that appealing. Plus, it is small, making it almost a guarantee that you're going to have to wait, except on an especially slow night. And my dining crew is generally more impatient than I am. I finally risked it on a weeknight. We had to wait. I didn't mind, entertained by the hoard of photos pinned to a board in the entryway, all Freds and Freddys.
August 10, 2012 |
The Parish , chef Casey Lane's new downtown gastropub, is the house that booze built. Although Lane is widely admired as the chef of Venice's well-regarded Tasting Kitchen, he has created the menu of his new place entirely in homage to its bar. It's a move that is at once bold and humble, and it's part of the mounting proof that the city's thriving craft cocktail scene is changing the face of its restaurant culture. "It was really all about me designing a menu that was going to be able to stand up to cocktails," says Lane, adding that the Parish's head mixologist John Coltharp is one of the best bartenders he's ever encountered.
September 8, 2012
The Parish Casey Lane reinvents the gastropub ... as a gastropub. LOCATION 840 S. Spring St., Los Angeles, (213) 225-2400, theparishla.com. PRICES: Snacks $6-$11; small plates $6-$12; larger plates, $12-$20, more for big meat; desserts $7-$9. DETAILS: Open daily, 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Credit cards accepted. Full bar. Valet parking.
June 2, 2012
The newest project of Ricardo Diaz, this Mexican-flavored gastropub continues his winning streak. Location 12706 Philadelphia St., Whittier, (562) 945-2426 Prices Antojitos, $3-$6; ceviches, $5-$19; main dishes, $9-$13; desserts, $6 Details Open for lunch 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday to Friday and for dinner 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Friday, and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Credit cards accepted. Full bar. Lot parking.
December 2, 2009
Thierry Perez, former co-owner of Fraîche, says he is planning to open Waterloo & City in Culver City by the end of this month or the beginning of 2010. Perez says he has partnered with Carlos Tomazos, who had been manager at Gilt and had worked at Per Se, both in New York. The third partner and chef, who asked not to be named because he hasn't notified his current employer, describes it as a British-style gastropub with a predominantly Italian and French menu. "He's English and I'm French," Perez offers as an explanation.