Gourmet Magazine

For 68 years, Gourmet magazine upheld at least one end of the foodie vision. For decades, its vision virtually defined sophisticated cuisine for Americans. Back then, Gourmet was the only game in town. In its early days, the magazine had a genteel, clubby feel, suggesting that its readers had probably traveled in Europe, something very few Americans did before cheap airfares appeared in the 1960s. In a way, Gourmet actually was a club. Readers shared their most impressive recipes in its pages, unselfconsciously calling for pheasant and truffles as needed, confident that the other readers would not dismiss this as mere snobbery.

Compiled by Grace Krilanovich. SUNDAY Mark Edward Harris: The author of "The Way of the Japanese Bath" will discuss and sign his new photography book. Pacific Asia Museum, 46 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena. 2 p.m. Free with museum admission. (626) 449-2742, Ext. 20. MONDAY Brian Kennedy: The author of "Living the Hockey Dream: Personal Stories of NHL Superstars and Ordinary Heroes" will present and sign his new book. Vroman's Bookstore, 695 E. Colorado Blvd.

Jane Montant, 85, who helped transform Gourmet magazine from a food publication into a lifestyle magazine for the affluent, died Jan. 1 at her home in New York City. She had been battling Parkinson's disease, emphysema and liver cancer. Montant was editor in chief from 1980 to 1991, when she retired. During her tenure, Gourmet's circulation rose from 671,000 to 895,000. Under her leadership, Gourmet attracted talented writers such as James Beard, Joseph Wechsberg and Richard Condon.

Since Condé Nast shuttered Gourmet magazine a month ago, the world of food publishing has been consumed by postmortems. What went wrong and why? But maybe a more interesting question is: Where do we go from here? The queen is dead, long live the queen. But which magazine will emerge to take Gourmet's throne? The answer is, probably none of them. In looking through the Thanksgiving issues of the various food periodicals now on the newsstands, it becomes clear that more and more magazine publishing is about what broadcasters call narrowcasting -- focusing on serving the needs of a small but enthusiastic audience.

Those of us who still refer to our battered copies of Jane and Michael Stern's "Roadfood" books have been waiting several years for an updated edition. Finally, the "Two for the Road" columnists for Gourmet magazine have come out with a revision, this time called "Eat Your Way Across the U.S.A." (Broadway Books, $15). It's got entries on the country's best diners, barbecue stands, cafeterias and more--even a few recipes.

The Ritz-Carlton of Laguna Niguel was named one of the world's top 10 hotels in a survey of Gourmet magazine readers. The Hotel Bel-Air, in ritzy Bel-Air, took top honors overall. Last year, in the magazine's first survey of hotels, the Ritz-Carlton also was highly ranked. Although the Ritz-Carlton is delighted with the recognition, no one expects a dramatic increase in booked rooms. But extra publicity never hurts, said spokeswoman Suzanne Willis.

Hats off to the Ritz-Carlton hotel in Dana Point for being voted among the world's best hotels and resorts, according to a first-ever reader's survey by Gourmet magazine. Normally devoted to high-brow cuisine and cultured living, Gourmet for the first time in its May issue concentrates exclusively to fine lodgings. More than 300 hotels, resorts, inns and bed & breakfasts in 56 countries are listed in the published report, called "Rooms at the Top."

The world's most romantic hotel looks out upon Catalina sunsets from the bluffs of Dana Point, a survey of Gourmet magazine's tasteful readers has found. They bestowed the honor on the Ritz-Carlton, a Mediterranean-style luxury hotel with sweeping coastal views and unusual options for the romantically inclined.

Ruth Reichl's much-awaited "new" Gourmet magazine won't debut until September, but the August edition on the newsstands contains at least one portent of things to come. For what might be the first time in her nearly 30 years at the magazine, West Coast restaurant critic Caroline Bates has written a negative review. The unlucky first? Bouchon, the lower-priced spinoff of Thomas Keller's universally acclaimed The French Laundry in the Napa Valley.

Shame on S. Irene Virbila for her ill-conceived review, "Little Old Bistro in Pasadena" (July 14). As one who has been a delighted guest at Bistro 45 on many occasions during the past several years, I am inclined to disagree with her on every count. I, and the countless diners to whom I have recommended Bistro 45 as one of Pasadena's finest, have never found the "pretensions" or the "unexciting" dishes that Virbila refers to. Jack C. Janss Pasadena Virbila does a serious disservice to readers who may bypass Bistro 45 based on her jaundiced review.

For 68 years, Gourmet magazine upheld at least one end of the foodie vision. For decades, its vision virtually defined sophisticated cuisine for Americans. Back then, Gourmet was the only game in town. In its early days, the magazine had a genteel, clubby feel, suggesting that its readers had probably traveled in Europe, something very few Americans did before cheap airfares appeared in the 1960s. In a way, Gourmet actually was a club. Readers shared their most impressive recipes in its pages, unselfconsciously calling for pheasant and truffles as needed, confident that the other readers would not dismiss this as mere snobbery.

Two years ago, Conde Nast's Vogue published its biggest issue, an advertising-packed behemoth that symbolized the prosperity of New York's glittering magazine industry as it rode the twin booms in the economy and luxury spending to dramatic heights. Generous expense accounts were de rigueur at glossy fashion and lifestyle magazines. Some top editors and publishers enjoyed clothing allowances and mortgage assistance. Even lowly assistants flitted about in chauffeur-driven town cars.

When the magazine of good living produced the first Gourmet cookbook in 1950, the world was a very different place. Europe was war-ravaged, while America was rich, innocent and giddy -- the perfect setting for a new Europe, but with better plumbing and wider streets. All it needed were some pointers about the finer things in life. Gourmet magazine was happy to oblige. By 1957, it had produced not one but two domestic bibles of continental cuisine. Granted, there were curiosities from elsewhere.

Jane Montant, 85, who helped transform Gourmet magazine from a food publication into a lifestyle magazine for the affluent, died Jan. 1 at her home in New York City. She had been battling Parkinson's disease, emphysema and liver cancer. Montant was editor in chief from 1980 to 1991, when she retired. During her tenure, Gourmet's circulation rose from 671,000 to 895,000. Under her leadership, Gourmet attracted talented writers such as James Beard, Joseph Wechsberg and Richard Condon.

Ruth Reichl's much-awaited "new" Gourmet magazine won't debut until September, but the August edition on the newsstands contains at least one portent of things to come. For what might be the first time in her nearly 30 years at the magazine, West Coast restaurant critic Caroline Bates has written a negative review. The unlucky first? Bouchon, the lower-priced spinoff of Thomas Keller's universally acclaimed The French Laundry in the Napa Valley.

The world's most romantic hotel looks out upon Catalina sunsets from the bluffs of Dana Point, a survey of Gourmet magazine's tasteful readers has found. They bestowed the honor on the Ritz-Carlton, a Mediterranean-style luxury hotel with sweeping coastal views and unusual options for the romantically inclined.

Keep your hands out of the cookie jar--if it holds Aunt Vertie's sugar cookies. Gourmet magazine sent 750,000 letters to subscribers last week because a recipe in its July issue called for wintergreen oil. Wintergreen oil is used to ease sore muscles and should not be ingested. The recipe should have called for wintergreen extract, Melissa Small, an assistant editor at the magazine, said Monday. "We thought we should inform our readers of this. Some people can be allergic to it," Small said.

Compiled by Grace Krilanovich. SUNDAY Mark Edward Harris: The author of "The Way of the Japanese Bath" will discuss and sign his new photography book. Pacific Asia Museum, 46 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena. 2 p.m. Free with museum admission. (626) 449-2742, Ext. 20. MONDAY Brian Kennedy: The author of "Living the Hockey Dream: Personal Stories of NHL Superstars and Ordinary Heroes" will present and sign his new book. Vroman's Bookstore, 695 E. Colorado Blvd.

The Ritz-Carlton of Laguna Niguel was named one of the world's top 10 hotels in a survey of Gourmet magazine readers. The Hotel Bel-Air, in ritzy Bel-Air, took top honors overall. Last year, in the magazine's first survey of hotels, the Ritz-Carlton also was highly ranked. Although the Ritz-Carlton is delighted with the recognition, no one expects a dramatic increase in booked rooms. But extra publicity never hurts, said spokeswoman Suzanne Willis.

Val Rules. Valentino has just been voted "top table" in the Los Angeles area by Gourmet magazine's readers, beating out Patina, Matsuhisa, Hotel Bel-Air and L'Orangerie, the next four in line. Readers gave it high marks in food quality, presentation, wine list, ambience and service in the October issue, which hits the stands this week. The only other metropolitan area to award top honors to an Italian restaurant in this survey was Minneapolis-St. Paul.