December 17, 1989 |
"In order to really understand modern cooking in America, it is essential to follow the food fashions of France," writes Levy. French cooking today covers a broad range, from classic entrees to rustic dishes to inventive, modern cookery, she states. And it may incorporate such foreign sounding ingredients as star anise, cumin and filo dough because inventive French chefs believe in using ingredients from other parts of the world. This analysis prepares the way for a varied collection of recipes.
October 10, 1991 |
When a friend asked for a special salad idea, I immediately thought of a simple but delicious recipe from a new cookbook, "The Antipasto Table" by Michele Scicolone (William Morrow & Co.: 1991). The green-bean-and-new-potato salad with mint is easy to make, does not call for any hard-to-find ingredients and makes a striking impression.
June 24, 1998 |
Chinese long beans, also known as yard-long beans, can be found in Asian markets and some supermarkets. These members of the black-eyed pea family taste much like green beans but are not quite as sweet. Although they can indeed grow up to a yard long, select the smaller, younger pods for this salad; they will be much more tender.
February 24, 2005 |
The wind and rain sweep us through the door to a table at the new Pecorino Restaurant in Brentwood. Yes, the former Zax has gone Italian, like half the neighborhood. Toscana, Palmeri, Sor Tino and Latini Osteria are all within shouting distance. In fact, two of Pecorino's owners, Mario Sabatini and Giorgio Pierangeli, were waiters and managers at the long-standing Toscana across the street. Everyone coming in the door seems to know either Mario or Giorgio.
September 22, 1999 |
Cooking is such a personal thing that I've always wondered about books written by more than one person. What if there's a disagreement? Do they compromise (meaning you get neither person's ideal version)? Do they vote? Do they slug it out? In the case of Julia Child and Jacques Pepin's "Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home" (Alfred Knopf, $40) by Child and Pepin, it's the last.
December 21, 1986 |
Chinese Seasons by Nina Simonds (Houghton Mifflin: $19.95, 267 pp., illustrated with Chinese paintings and calligraphy). Nina Simonds lived and studied in Taiwan for several years. She escorts gourmet tours there and knows Mandarin well enough to cope with Taipei taxi drivers and to translate cookbooks by noted Chinese authors. Thus, she is a splendid source of information on Chinese cooking. In this, her second book, Simonds branches out from the traditional, incorporating ingredients and ideas from other cultures with Chinese recipes and vice versa.
January 21, 1990 |
Last spring, Minnie Katherine Pomerinke planted beans. Brand-name seeds. Nothing magic. "Green beans is all I can tell you," she says. "That's all they were." The beans grew past the top of her one-story house, with leaves the size of pie pans. Minnie Pomerinke, 77, says she has planted a vegetable garden every year since she was 18. But she says she has never seen a bean like the one she planted last spring. She recounted her steps.
April 13, 1995 |
How expensive has iceberg lettuce gotten? So expensive that Campanile's Nancy Silverton, tired of paying the restaurant price of $60 a case (that's more than $2.50 a head), banned it from staff meals. Let them eat arugula. It's getting almost spooky, watching the careening lettuce prices in the wake of the devastating March floods in the Salinas Valley. The cost of a 24-head case at the Los Angeles produce terminal swung from $36 to more than $50 before ending at $30 last week.
June 30, 1999 |
The spirited crowing of Bruce the rooster, the mascot of the Kendor egg farm of Van Nuys, serenades visitors to the Encino Farmers Market, the largest one in the San Fernando Valley. Customers were crowing too Sunday when they tasted samples of the Honey Crisp stand's luscious Snow Queen white nectarines, speckled by sugar spots, with a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, and intense, lingering flavor.
August 30, 1990 |
Ninety-eight point six percent of the time when a menu arrives in my mailbox, it's tethered to a giddy press release. A few weeks ago the Little Orchids restaurant menu sailed in with a note from a friend. "I come here all the time," it said. "Incredibly cheap, the people are dolls, the coconut soup is great. Want to review it?" I called her the next day. "You really like it?" "Love it," she said. "The fish cake's incredible. And all my friends go there." "OK," I said. "You're on."