August 27, 1997 |
When shopping randomly for dinner recently, I picked up some plump, ripe mangoes. Huge bunches of cilantro and large, firm limes were also tempting, so I added those, along with several small serrano chiles and sweet red onions. I decided to use the mangoes in a salsa for fish, so I bought a couple of fresh swordfish steaks. At home, I marinated the fish steaks in lime juice and olive oil before grilling them.
October 24, 1996 |
There was a period of time about three years ago when Tom Welton, then manager of the Ventura Theatre, was looking for something to occupy his time after work. Welton, a regular diner at Juro' Cho' Sushi, located near the theater in downtown Ventura, decided to request some sushi lessons several nights a week from the Juro' Cho' chefs. Apparently the lessons had quite an impact.
September 1, 1996 |
Good small restaurants, opened by cooks who are more passionate about food than finances, are popping up all over town, often in out-of-the-way spots. One of the brightest of the bunch is on a nondescript corner of Pico Boulevard in a modest building painted the color of a Tuscan villa. The minute you walk in the door, 2424 Pico entices with the smells of cumin and garlic and basil.
June 20, 1996 |
DEAR SOS: Can you obtain the recipe for the wonderful teriyaki cod served at Asakuma, a Japanese restaurant in Los Angeles? --SEYMOUR DEAR SEYMOUR: Those who love cod, or any grilled fish, will love the teriyaki marinade made with sake in this recipe. Any firm-fleshed fish may be substituted for cod. What a great barbecue season treat.
May 23, 1996 |
It's one of those modern culinary paradoxes: Nothing is simpler to prepare than a well-cooked piece of fish, yet there is nothing harder to find in a restaurant. Good fish cooking is an exercise in almost religious self-denial. When you've got an ingredient as beautiful (and as expensive) as a great piece of seafood, the cook's job is to get out of the way and let it shine on its own.
December 10, 1995 |
One recent evening when I called to make reservations at Pinot Hollywood, the energy of this latest Patina spinoff from chef Joachim Splichal fairly crackled over the line. Above the laughter and chatter, I imagined I heard popping Champagne corks, the clink of glasses, the snap of the oak-wood grill. Pinot Hollywood is designed to fill a neighborhood need for late-night feasting, which explains in part why the restaurant throws off such sparks.
January 28, 1993 |
Enter La Capannina de Santa Barbara and quickly note: This looks like a family operation. Nothing corporate. Nothing configured with design consultants, nothing thematic or studied. Yet things are trim, neatly turned out in warm brick and creamy plaster, and clean and reassuring. You are, after all, in an old house a few blocks in from the ocean.
May 21, 1992 |
Do you flounder when ordering seafood? If so, kindly ponder the following: If you were a fish Would it be your wish To be wetly kissed By an ichthyologist Or garnished, and served on a dish? --1992, understandably anonymous Cosmic ramifications aside, the point of the above is to introduce the idea of seafood, especially on those occasions when it is presented as an entree.
August 25, 1991 |
Here's the story: A major-league seafood restaurant, the Water Grill, recently opened in fish-starved downtown Los Angeles. Expect to find it moderately busy at dinner (which it makes a point of serving as early as 4:30 on Thursdays and Sundays for theater matinee-goers) and packed to the grills at lunch. But where is it? If you believe the people who answer the phone, the address is 523 Grand Ave.